Archive-name: woodworking/faq/faq
Last-modified: 3/17/94

Copyright (c) 1994 by James J. Roche. All rights reserved. 

I have been reading and archiving rec.woodworking since its inception
as net.rec.wood back in 1984. Below are some of the topics that seem to
come up frequently.

If you have any constructive comments please let me know. If there is
something you would like to see added please pass it on to me.

TABLE OF CONTENTS:
 1). Should I buy a table saw or a radial arm saw?
 2). Which type of dado blade should I buy, the dial (wobble type) or
  the stacking (chipper type)?
 3). How do I cut the perfect dado if both types of dado blades have
  shortcomings?
 4). Should I buy a Sears blurfl?
 5). Should I buy a Taiwanese clone blurfl?
 6). How do I remove paint?
 7). Should I use a hot melt glue gun for my next project?
 8). Where can I get plans for the New Yankee Workshop projects?
 9). What is the best woodworking magazine?
 10). What is a board foot?
 11). What is the correct way to handle the glue squeeze out problem?
 12). What books should I purchase to learn about various aspects of
  woodworking?
 13). How do I finish toys so that they are non-toxic?
 14). What size drill bit do I use for a wood screw?
 15). How do I finish the edge of plywood?
 16). Which saw blade should I buy?
 17). Where are the archives for rec.woodworking?
 18). Where can I find cradle plans?
 19). Where can I find futon plans?
 20). Where can I get information about particle board?
 21). What are some of the common woodworking terms/abbreviations?
 22). How do I finish a cutting board?


1). Should I buy a table saw or a radial arm saw?

 Table saws work best for ripping. Radial arm saws work best for
 crosscutting, but are limited by their arm's length. Both 
 saws will perform both tasks. The radial arm is more adaptable for 
 non-sawing tasks. For instance, overhead routing, surface planing, and 
 drum sanding attachments are available for some radial arm saws. You
 can buy a disk sanding attachment for use on most table saws.

 Ripping on the radial arm saw is difficult because it is necessary
 to push the lumber under the motor housing.  This problem can be
 minimized by use of pushsticks and holddown wheels. Maximum rip width
 is normally limited by the length of the arm. Building a secondary rip
 fence on the other side of the table from the column will enable you to
 rip wider pieces, but the off-cut piece width is then limited. Radial
 arm saws are more prone to overheating during rips in thick wood since
 the teeth stay in the cut longer, unless you cut substantially into
 the table top and even then there is no place for the sawdust to exit.

 Crosscutting on the table saw is difficult because it is tough to
 keep a board much longer than 4 ft square to the blade.  This
 problem can be minimized by building a good sliding panel cutter. Some
 table saws have built-in sliding tables, and aftermarket sliding table
 attachments are available for most saws. A couple of saws have sliding
 arbors, enabling them to work as inverted radial arm saws. The arbors
 typically don't slide as far as the length of many radial arms (for a
 review of 2 of these saws, see the April 1992 issue of FWW).

 Both saws are capable of accurate work. The radial arm saw, with its
 cantilevered arm attached to a cantilevered column, is typically less
 rigid than the table saw, which usually have their arbor trunions 
 bolted to the table in a wide pattern. Worn arm bearing in radial arm 
 saws can also contribute to wander in the cut. In table saws, play of
 the miter gauge bar will adversely affect accuracy.

 Both table saws and radial arm saws need to be aligned to work
 optimally. There are more aligning tasks to be performed on a radial
 arm saw than on a table saw. Radial arm saws typically require
 realignment more frequently than table saw, perhaps because of the 
 stresses put on the cantilevered assemblies.

 Radial arm saws don't need as much space around them as table saws for
 performing equivalent tasks. On the radial arm saw, boards are always
 oriented the same way whether you are ripping or crosscutting, so you
 need space to the left and right of the blade, and only as wide as the
 widest board you're cutting. On the table saws, boards are oriented at 
 right angles depending on whether you're ripping or crosscutting. Thus,
 you need space in front and in back for ripping, and to the left and 
 right as well for crosscutting.

 It seems to be easier to engineer and manufacture a table saw than a
 radial arm saw, which has more moving parts that must withstand large
 forces without deflection or play. It can therefore be argued that if
 you're on a budget, a cheap table saw may work better for you than a 
 cheap radial arm saw.

 Some people say the radial arm saw is more dangerous because the blade
 is exposed above the work surface, and because the blade's location
 varies as the cut progresses. Angled crosscutting is particularly
 dangerous since the blade is now cutting where one normally holds the
 work. The spin direction of the blade tends to lift the work off of
 the table when ripping, and can pull the carriage into the work
 (resulting in binding of the saw or serious injury to a careless
 operator) in the crosscut position. So-called "safety-blades" have
 a shoulder in front of each tooth, thus limiting the amount of pull
 generated and reducing these tendencies.

 Some people say the table saw is more dangerous because you can't 
 see where the blade is like you can with the radial arm saw. On the
 other hand, the blade is always in the same spot on the table. The
 spin action of the table saw's blade tends to keep the work down on
 the table, but it can also throw the work, and off-cuts, back at the
 operator.

 Both machines are very dangerous and should be treated with much
 respect.

 As with all tool buying decisions, you should consider your intended
 applications, both now and in the future. The general consensus is that
 if you're building things like jungle gyms, house additions, or trim
 work (moldings), a radial arm saw may be best. If you're building 
 things like fine furniture or cabinets, a table saw may be more a
 more appropriate choice.

 A number of people have reported that the addition of a motorized
 miter box to a table saw is a satisfying combination.

 Taunton Press publishes a softcover book titled "Fine Woodworking on
 The Small Workshop." It contains a number of articles on designing and
 buying equipment for small shops, but is geared to furnituremaking.
 The majority of the recommendations are for getting a table saw first,
 with one writer claiming a bandsaw is the first tool to buy.

2). Which type of dado blade should I buy, the dial (wobble type) or
the stacking (chipper type)?

 The wobble type is very simple to use with infinite settings
 between approximately 1/4 inch and 13/16 inch. It does not produce
 true right angle cuts because of the design. 

 The chipper type doesn't have the same infinite setting for width.
 You can achieve nearly infinite settings by adding shims with
 thicknesses of 1/32, 1/64, 1/128, etc.  It will cut a square bottom
 on the dado, but it will also leave 2 grooves on the edges of the
 dado. The reason for this is that the blades are slightly larger
 than the chippers.  The larger blades are to reduce the splintering.
 The blades can be reground to be equal to the size of the chippers
 at the possible cost of increased splintering. Some say the grooves
 are a benefit because they provide relief for gluing joints. 

 Many people claim that the wobble type is easier to set up.

 The August 1991 Fine Woodworking further studies the features of
 the various types of dado blades.

3). How do I cut the perfect dado if both types of dado blades have
shortcomings?

 Your best bet would be to cut it with a router.

4). Should I buy a Sears blurfl?

 Most people agree that the Sears stationary power tools sold today
 aren't the same quality as the Sears tools sold 20 years ago.  
 It can be argued that if you can't afford to buy a Delta, then
 you should be looking at one of the Taiwanese clones rather than
 looking at Sears.

5). Should I buy a Taiwanese clone blurfl?

 It depends on how much money you have. If you can afford the
 Delta blurfl you should probably get it. Buyers should be
 wary that not all Taiwanese clones are quality machines. The
 general consensus is that Grizzly has good quality control.

 It should be noted that some of Delta tools are now being made
 in Taiwan. One would hope that Delta quality control is better than
 some of the cheaper imports.


6). How do I remove paint?

 There are many ways to strip paint from wood.

 Paint can be removed by scraping and/or sanding.
 Paint can be removed by using chemical paint removers.
 Paint can be removed by using heat.
 Paint can be removed by sandblasting.
 Paint can be removed by a new product known as Peel-Away.
 Rumor has it that oven cleaner also works.

 If you know of another way to remove paint please feel free to pass
 the information along. 

7). Should I use a hot melt glue gun for my next project?

 The general consensus is that hot melt glue is not adequate
 for woodworking projects. However, hot melt glue guns can
 have a place in the shop. Many people like to use them for
 tacking items together such as when building forms or jigs.

8) Where can I get plans for the New Yankee Workshop projects?

 Plans for any of Norm's projects can be ordered for $7.50 from

        (project name)
        New Yankee Workshop
        P.O. Box 645
        Bedford, MA  01730

 Videos, which include a copy of the plans, cost $24.95 plus shipping
 and handling, from 800-272-0280.  Both the address and phone number
 are given at the end of each show.

 Most of the projects from the first two seasons are in the two
 New Yankee Workshop books.  For the workbench, one important
 dimension is *not* given in the book, though it can, I think,
 be calculated.

9) What is the best woodworking magazine?

 There are many good woodworking magazines. Two that are frequently
 recommended in this group are Fine Woodworking and Woodsmith.

 Fine Woodworking is a bit on the artsy side and more for the
 experienced woodworker. It does not get into the small details
 of a project.

 Woodsmith provides much more details for projects. Woodsmith is
 well suited for both the amateur and experienced woodworker.

10) What is a board foot?

 A board foot is a common unit used in the measurement of wood.
 It is equal to 1 foot length x 1 foot width x 1 inch thick.
 It should be noted that the thickness is nominal thickness.
 After drying and surfacing the usual thickness of a 1 inch
 board is 13/16.

 A board 10 feet long x 1 foot wide x 2 inches thick would be
 equal to 20 board feet.

11) What is the correct way to handle the glue squeeze out problem?

 Use the right amount of glue.  The (obvious) danger is a glue
 starved joint.

  Wipe off the excess glue immediately with a damp sponge or paper
 towel.  This method gets mixed reviews.  Some claim the water-glue
 mixture will soak into the wood and show up when the piece is finished.
 Others say that this is not a problem.  The effectiveness of this
 method probably depends on the type of wood and finish that are used.

 Allow the glue to harden somewhat (1/2 - 2 hrs) and then
 chisel/scrape it off.  Some recommend removing the glue after it
 begins to film over.

 Either finish the pieces ahead of time or apply paste wax.  This
 should prevent the glue from sticking.  The problem with this is
 removing the paste wax prior to finishing.

 Use a plastic drinking straw cut at 45 degrees to scoop the glue
 out of the inside corner.  As the straw fills up, it can be trimmed to
 provide a fresh surface.

12) What books should I purchase to learn about various aspects of
woodworking?

 Thanks to Ken Smith (kensmith@cs.Buffalo.EDU) for providing the
 ISBN numbers along with a couple of additions to the list.

 GENERAL WOODWORKING
  Cabinetmaking and Millwork - John L. Feirer
   ISBN 0-02-675950-0
  New Yankee Workshop - Norm Abram
   ISBN 0-316-00454-5
  Classics From The New Yankee Workshop - Norm Abram
   ISBN 0-316-00455-3
  Mostly Shaker - Norm Abram
   ISBN 0-316-00473-1
  Encyclopedia of Furniture Making - Ernest Joyce
   ISBN 0-8069-6441-3


 FINISHING
  The Woodfinishing Book - Michael Dresdner
   ISBN 1-56158-037-6

 INTRODUCTORY WOODWORKING
  Basic Woodworking - Sunset Books
   ISBN 0-376-0-1628-0

 JOINERY
  Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking: Joinery Tools and Techniques
    - Tage Frid
   ISBN 0-918804-03-5
  Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking: Shaping, Veneering, Finishing
    - Tage Frid
   ISBN 0-918804-11-6 (out of print though)
  Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking: Furniture Projects
    - Tage Frid
   ISBN 0-918804-40-X


 TOOLS
  Router Jigs and Techniques - Patrick Spielman
   ISBN 0-8069-6694-7
  200 Original Shop Aids & Jigs for Woodworkers -Rosario Capotosto

 WOOD
  Understanding Wood - R. Bruce Hoadley
   ISBN 0-918804-05-1

13) How do I finish toys so that they are non-toxic?

 a.  Behlens Salad Bowl Finish.  This product has been approved by
     the FDA for use on objects that will come in contact with
     food.  It produces a nice, semi-gloss finish.
 b.  Any vegetable oil. Could become rancid after a period of time.
 c.  Walnut oil.  It reacts with the air and hardens into a true
     finish.  It works particularly well when the oil is heated
     and the item is dipped into the warm oil. Available at health
     food or large grocery stores.  Don't buy the gourmet stuff!
 d.  Mineral oil or vaseline.
 e.  Water-based polyurethanes.  These are new products which are
     very different from the more familiar oil-based
     polyurethanes.  They are totally non-toxic, dry quickly, and
     have no strong odors when applying.
 f.  Pure Tung Oil. It has no driers or solvents. It is essentially
     just a vegetable oil but produces a nice finish that won't go
     rancid. Use only Tung Oil that is "pure".
 g.  Rumor has it that shellac is also safe once it dries. I have
     been unable to verify this.
 h.  Watco claims its oils are suitable for food or baby use if they've  
     been allowed to dry for 30 days or more. They claim that it takes  
     this time for full polymerization.
 i.  Paint. Some paints claim to be non-toxic when dry.
 h.  Leave items unfinished.

 If you are unsure about any finish you plan to use, contact the
 manufacturer and request the information. You can also request
 an MSDS (Materials Safety Data Sheet).

14) What size drill bit do I use for a wood screw?

  Screw Gage    Shank    Shank     Pilot     Pilot
   Number        Hole    Size      Soft Wd   Hard Wd
       0         1/16    .060      1/64      1/32
       1         5/64    .073      1/32      1/32
       2         3/32    .086      1/32      3/64
       3         7/64    .099      3/64      1/16
       4         7/64    .112      3/64      1/16
       5         1/8     .125      1/16      5/64
       6         9/64    .138      1/16      5/64
       7         5/32    .151      1/16      3/32
       8         11/64   .164      5/64      3/32
       9         3/16    .177      5/64      7/64
      10         3/16    .190      3/32      7/64
      11         13/64             3/32      1/8
      12         7/32    .216      7/64      1/8
      14         1/4     .242      7/64      9/64
      16         17/64   .268      9/64      5/32
      18         19/64   .294      9/64      3/16
      20         21/64   .320      11/64     13/64

15) How do I finish the edge of plywood?
 a) Wood tape. It comes in 2 forms, one that can be ironed on, and
    one that can be contact cemented on. The tape is approximately
    1 inch wide, and can be trimmed with a plane, router, or knife.
 b) Glue strips of wood, either purchased or cut from lumber.

16). Which saw blade should I buy?
 There is an excellent article on evaluating carbide tipped
 sawblades in issue #72 of Fine Homebuilding (March 1992).

 To summarize the article:

 An expensive blade will typically last longer than a cheap
 blade and the cost difference is made up by the number of
 extra sharpenings available from the investment.

 A blade that has been tensioned will run truer and cost more
 than a blade that hasn't been tensioned.

 Carbide blades will last up to 60 times longer than steel blades.

17). Where are the archives for rec.woodworking?
 There are 2 archives that I know about.

 The first is ftp.cs.purdue.edu in /pub/sjc/woodworking. Currently
 it contains a list of Woodsmith plans.

 The second is ftp.cs.rochester.edu in /pub/rec.woodworking. Currently
 it contains summaries of past discussions of tools, some
 safety related notes, and some of the FAQ postings. Below is
 the current list of files available for ftp from cs.rochester.edu:

   15496 Sep 28 14:48 address
  128083 Oct  7 11:36 bandsaw
    51637 Sep 28 15:21 biscuit_joiners
      6125 Oct 28 09:13 crib_safety
    42264 Oct  1 09:05 dust_collect
  106944 Sep 29 09:29 jointer
    15746 Sep 28 16:03 miter_saw
    16610 Oct  5 13:39 motors
    52704 Sep 29 10:51 planer
    44905 Oct  1 14:15 radial_saw
  140134 Oct  6 13:01 routers
    54977 Feb 19 11:19 ryobi.bt3000
    48837 Oct 27 10:35 sander_belt
    42432 Oct 27 10:39 sander_misc
    47661 Oct 27 10:40 sander_random-orbit
      7975 Feb  5 12:44 sawzall
    34745 Oct  1 09:23 scrollsaw
    27066 Nov 12 11:27 shop_heat
    26377 Oct 28 09:17 toy_safety

18). Where can I find cradle plans?

 1.  Garrett Wade
  $9.95 for plans for a "rocking cradle
  item number 14A03.SA in their 1993 tools catalog

 2.  The Woodworkers' Store
  $4.95 for plans for a "four post cradle"
  item number 40360 in their 1991-2 catalog

 3.  The August 1990 issue of Fine Woodworking has an article about
  making a cradle.

 4. Bartley offers a cradle kit for $199.  If it's up to the quality
  of their other kits, this should be good.

 5. Woodsmith issue #48 - cradle with frame and panel ends with
  arched-top panels.


19). Where can I find futon plans?

 1. TODAYS WOODWORKER JULY/AUG 1989, VOL 1 NO. 4
  Queen size futon folded in half length wise.
  Very attractive Futon sofa bed frame for queen size
  futon (possibly Swedish modern). Unfolds to make bed,
  breaks down for moving.  Elegant design with lots of
  mortise and tenon joinery.

 2. WOODWORKER'S JOURNAL NOV/DEC 1992 VOL 16 NO. 6
  "Standard" futon frame for standard 2 fold futon.
  Classic bi fold futon frame for queen size futon. The
  plans claim to be (and appear to be) appropriate for
  "even beginning woodworkers".

 3. Fine Woodworking    July/August '89 NO. 77

 4. Specialty Furniture Designs (800-892-4026)
  Design "WSN-15" $14.95
  Catalog $2.00
  Attractive (modern) Sofa like futon frame fro singe fold
  futon (futon folds once (the long way)).  Plans for both
  twin (39 x 75) and full (54 x 75).
  Plans are a large single sheet of blue print like drawings
  with associated text, construction looks reasonable and
  pictures of the finished project look good, but the plans
  are a bit intimidating

 5. Popular Woodworking SEP 1992, issue #68
  "Knock-Down Couch"
  Attractive Mission / Craftsman like design for a sturdy,
  knock-down couch. The plans are not specifically for
  futons but could be easily adapted to a single fold futon
  (might not need to be adapted).


20). Where can I get information about particle board?

 The following was provided by Stavros Macrakis (macrakis@osf.org)
 and was added to the FAQ with his permission.

 *********************************************************************
 For technical information on particleboard (PB), the National
 Particleboard Association puts out some very nice free pamphlets,
 which I summarize below.  Although they are basically addressed to
 industrial users, they cover particleboard joint techniques quite well
 for the rest of us.  Some of the facts about joints are very surprising.

 I've tried to summarize the essential information below, but you can
 also order copies from: NPA, 18928 Premiere Court, Gaithersburg,
 MD 20879.

 Specifier's Guide to PB and MDF

   Abstract
  There are 15 ANSI grades of particleboard, with diverse
   properties.  For instance, face screwing strength varies from 90-450
   lb, stiffness from 80,000-500,000 psi.  Recommendations are given
   for matching grade to use.

 Dowel Holding Strength of PB and MDF

   Abstract
  Dowels joints are one of the cost common adhesive-based
   furniture assembly joints.  Dowelling is a simple, inexpensive, and
   reliable means of making butt and miter joints.  Joint strength is
   largely determined by the holding power of the dowels.  Use good
   quality dowels, diameter <= 0.5x the stock thickness.  The longer
   the dowel, the greater the strength.  Holes should be 0.005"
   oversized for edges, same as dowel on faces.  Use 60%+ solids
   content PVA adhesive, applying glue to both dowel and hole wall,
   with slight squeeze-out.

 Adhesive-based Corner Joints for PB and MDF

   Abstract
  The thicker the panel, the stronger the joint.  Simple butt
   joints' strength is limited by delamination; glue blocks or edge
   banding help.  Dowel joints are standard, and work well; they should be
   glued only at the dowels, NOT between edge and face (!).  Four dowels
   for 18" are standard.  Biscuits have equivalent strength, but are
   easier to align at assembly.  The strength of a well-made simple miter
   joint without reinforcement (dowels, etc.) is generally comparable to
   that of dowelled butt joints (!); dowels add little strength, but
   splines and biscuits do.  Rabbets 1/3-1/2 the depth of the panel make
   strong joints, but tend to split.  Dados are better, but less
   attractive.  Rabbet and dado butt corner joints (= dado and tenon =
   dado box corner) combine a dado on one panel and a rabbet on the other.
   Dowelled butt joints are stronger (!).  Dovetails are excellent, but
   require precise and time-consuming machining.  Molded polyurethane
   joints (plastic splines) are as strong as or stronger than dowel
   joints.

 Metal Fasteners for PB and MDF

   Abstract
  Screws, nails, and staples are widely used.  Screws are
   strongest.  The type of screw affects strength by only +-10% (!), but
   PB screws are less likely to break.  Screw diameter affects strength
   little, but screw length directly affects it.  Screw diameter should
   not exceed 20% of stock thickness.  High internal bond strength PB
   holds screws better.  Edge screws have half the strength of face
   screws.  Use full-length pilot holes; shorter holes do not increase
   strength.  Ideal tightening is 3/4 turn past flush on the face; 3/8
   past flush on the edge.  Applying glue in the hole can increase
   strength as much as 45%.
  Staples are used for attaching fabric, etc., and to hold glued
   joints.
  Nails split panels, so should be >3" from a corner, and >6"
   apart.  Ring shank nails hold better, plastic coated best.  Drive
   them at an angle.

 Mechanically-based Corner joints for PB and MDF

   Abstract
  Most bolt and cam joints are 20-50% weaker than dowelled joints.
   Screw joints are comparable.  Plastic corner block units can be much
   stronger in outward bending, but only comparably strong in inward.
   Even when they are equally strong, mechanically-based joints are often
   less rigid.  These systems are most useful for ready-to-assemble
   manufactured kit furniture.

 Particle Shelf Systems (Builder's Bulletin #1)

  (not seen)


 All the above are free.  They also sell:

 Particleboard from Start to Finish $12.50

   Abstract (theirs, I haven't seen this)
  Ten chapters (120pp) of useful information for users of PB.
   Includes information on material handling and storage, sanding,
   machining and tooling, laminating, wet finishing, edge treatments,
   assembly and fastening, construction products, shelving and
   formaldehyde.

 MDF from Start to Finish $7.50

   Similar abstract, 42 pp.
 *********************************************************************

21). What are some of the common woodworking terms/abbreviations?

 HVLP - high volume/low pressure
 RAS - radial arm saw
 ROS - random orbital sander
 S2S - smooth 2 sides - surfaced 2 sides

22). How do I finish a cutting board?

 See the answer to question 13. 
-- 
Jim Roche
roche@cs.rochester.edu
University of Rochester Computer Science Department Rochester, NY 14627


------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: 08-26-94                         Msg # 24572  
  To: ALL                              Conf: (2120) news.answers
From: roche@cs.rochester.edu           Stat: Public
Subj: rec.woodworking Frequentl        Read: No
------------------------------------------------------------------------
@SUBJECT:rec.woodworking Frequently Requested Addresses               
@PACKOUT:08-26-94                                                     
Message-ID: <woodworking/addresses/list_777925570@cs.rochester.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking,news.answers,rec.answers
Organization: University of Rochester Computer Science Dept

Archive-name: woodworking/addresses/list
Last-modified: 7/20/94

Copyright (c) 1994 by James J. Roche. All rights reserved. 


Some of the more popular addresses/phone numbers used by woodworkers are 
included below. If you want to see some addresses added to this list please
let me know.

This is compiled from messages that have been posted to the group over the
past few years, and from vendors that I have used. This is not an endorsement
of any of the vendors listed.

*******************************************************************

Acurate Screw Machine Co  (201) 661-2600
19 Baltimore Street   (201) 661-3408 (FAX)
Nutley, NJ 07110
 Every oddball fastener you could think of.

Advanced Machinery Sales (AMS)  (302) 322-2226
POB 312
New Castle, DE 19720
 Selling Hegner, Felder, AMI

AMT (American Machine and Tool Company)  (215) 948-0400
Fourth Avenue and Spring Street
Royersford, PA 19468
 Name is somewht of a misnomer since much if not all the tools
 are imports. Similar to Grizzly catalog with more hand tools.

Arrowsmith & Lang-Borne    (304) 584-4246
Washington & Main St. Box 126   (800) 544-4283
Lumberport WV 26386
 Dust collector parts. Variety of sizes and gauges. Also
 has a booklet on dust collection for woodworkers.

Ballew Saw & Tool   (800) 288-7483
325 S. Kimbrough   (417) 865-7511
Springfield, MO 65806
 Shaper cutters, amana router bits, freud blades.

The Bartley  Collection   (800) 787-2800
29060 Airpark Drive
Easton MD 21601
 Antique Reproduction Furniture Kits, typically 17th. 18th. century
 stuff, the woods of choice are Mahogany and Cherry.  The pieces
 range from small tables, stools, mirrors, etc to large highboys,
  four poster beds etc.  Prices for kits ranges from about $100 to
 $3,000. No plans are available.

Berea Hardwoods    (216) 234-7949
6367 Eastland Rd.
Berea OH 44017
 "Specializing in unusual woods, but also a good source for
 more mundane species.  The proprietor is fun to talk to."

Bob Morgan's Woodworking Supplies (502) 456-2545
1123 Bardstown Road
Louisville, KY 40204
 Hardwoods, veneers, veneering tools and hand tools.

Bratton Machinery & Supply Inc.
1015 Commercial ST.
PO Box 20408
Tallahassee FL 32316
 [no other information]

Bridge City Tool Works   (800) 253-3332
        Squares and straightedges.  Very high prices and quality.

Brookstone    Orders: (603) 924-9541 (24 hours)
127 Vose Farm Road   Customer service: (603)924-9511 9-5 EST
Peterborough, NH 03458
 Unusual tools with a number of gadgets. Nice catalog. Brookstone
 has a numnber of stores around the country. You can sometimes find
 specific items for less elsewhere.

Burdens Surplus    (800) 488-3407
1015 West "O" St.   (402) 474-4055
Lincoln, NE  68501-2209
  Burden's has a large selection of new and used motors, pumps, 
 blowers and the like at reasonable prices. 

Cascade Tool Co.   (800) 235-0272
Box 848     In WA 236-027M-F 7-7 PT
Mercer Island, WA
 Router and shaper bits. All kinds.

Certainly Wood    (716) 655-0206
11753 Big Tree Road, Rt. 20A  (716) 655-3446 (FAX)
East Aurora, NY 14052
 Large selection of veneers and exotic hardwoods.

Cherry Tree Toys   (614) 484-4363 (24 hours)
POB 369,
Belmont, OH 43718
 Wood toys. Kits, parts, plans, books.

Chown Hardware & Machinery  (800) 547-1930
333 N.W. 16th Ave   Oregon (800) 452-7634
Portland, OR 97209   Local (503) 243-6500
 This company has been around a long time, since 1879.
 Nice catalog, fair prices, and a flyer that they send out
 every month with the current specials.

Constantines    (800) 223-8087
2050 Eastchester Road   In NY (800)822-1202 -disconnected 10/92
Bronx, NY 10461
 Probably the oldest woodworking company in the country (176 years)
 Wide selection of tools, woods, veneers, and hardware.

Craft Supplies USA   (801) 373-0917
1287 East 1120 South
Provo, Utah  84601
 They specialize in wood turning supplies, Lathes, Bandsaws
 Turning Chisels, Chucks, some wood, and parts for turnings;
 like pepper mills, etc.

Craftman's Corner, Inc.    515-265-3239
4012 N.E. 14th Street
P.O. Box AP
Des Moines, Iowa  50302
 [no other information]

Craftsman Wood Service Company  (708) 629-3100
1735 W. Cortland CT   (312) 629-3100
Addison, IL 60101
 Small format hand tools and related supplies. Veneer,hard wood,turning
 blocks,excellent selection of hardware, books  and plans and toys.

Craftwoods    (800) 468-7070
2101 Greenspring Dr.
Tionium MD 21093
 Common and wxotic woods, carving tools, bird carving items,
  books, videos, and classes.

Cryder Creek Wood Shoppe  (800) 642-9663
Box 19     In NY (607) 356-3303 9-4 EST
Whitesville, NY 14897
 Woodturner's supplies

Delta International   (800) 438-2486
4290 E. Raines Road   (800) 223-7278 Parts and Service
Memphis TN 38118
 Stationary power tools.

Duane Dahlvang Sales & Dist.  (800) 637-6606
21344 Avenue 332                        (209) 564-8073 (FAX)
Woodlake, CA 93286
 Airstream Dust and Spray Helmets

Eagle America    (216) 286-9334
PO Box 1099    (216) 286-7643 (FAX)
Chardon, Ohio 44024   (800) 872-2511 (orders)
 Router Bits

Econ-Abrasives    (800) 367-4101
PO Box 865021    In TX (214) 377-9779
Plano, TX, 75086-5021   M-F 7:30-5:00 CST
 They carry a wide range of sandpaper (belts, sheet, discs,
 rolls, drums).  Good prices, eg: 3x21 belts @ .77,
 4x24 belts @ .94
   Minimum order around $20, $4.25 shipping, take MC/VISA.
 The people on the phone KNOW sandpaper - they can help with
 most any abrasives question.

Factory Lumber Outlet
200 Shrewsbury St
Boylston MA
 "Large number of hand tools, books and plans.  Separate wood catalog.

The Fine Tool Journal
Iron Horse Antiques
PO Box 4001
Pittsford, VT 05763
 Publication for vintage hand tools.

Foley-Belsaw    Orders: 800 468-4449
6301 Equitable Road   In MO 800 892-8789
Box 419593
Kansas City, MO 64141 
 Large shop equipment: Planers, table saws, combination machines,
 even a sawmill! They send out several free catalogs a year and have
 a number of special offers throughout the year.

Frog Tool Co    (312) 648-1270
700 W. Jackson Blvd.
Chicago, Il 60661
  Hundreds of woodworking books. All kinds, all woodworking subjects.

Garrett Wade    Orders: (800) 221-2942
161 Avenue of the Americas  Customer service: (212)807-1155 M-F 9-5
New York, NY 10013
 One of the finest catalogs. A woodworker's bible of tools. GW also
 has a separate hardware catalog.
 "The prices are good considering the lavish catalog."

Grizzly Imports
2406 Reach Road   POB 2069
Williamsport, PA 17701  Bellingham, WA 98227
(717) 326-3806   (206) 647-0801
(800) 523-4777   (800) 541-5537
M-F 8:30-5:30   M-F 8:30-5:30
Sat 8:30-1
 Shop Machinery - Imports.
 Does not ship outside US.

Hartville Tool & Supply   (800) 345-2396 M-S 8:30-5
940 W. Maple Street
Hartville, OH 44632
 Brand name tools. Big discount place.

Hida Tool & Hardware Company   (415) 524-3700
1333 San Pablo Avenue  Store hours: T-S 9-5, Sun 11-4 Closed Mon
Berkeley, CA 94702
 Japanese Hand Tools. Excellent quality saws, planes, chisels, knives
 etc. Prices are commensurate with the quality but reasonable. Hida is
 across from REI in Berkeley.

Highland Hardware   (800) 241-6748
1045 N Highland Ave. NE   (404) 872-4466
Dept F  Atlanta GA 30306
 Good source for glues, finishes, etc.  Has Delta tools, good router
 and bisquit joiner selections.  Carries MiniMax and Robland
 stationary tools also.

Hiller Hardware    (803) 779-3131 M-F 9-5, Sat 9-1
1411 Assembly Street
POB 1762
Columbia, SC 29202
 Power Tools mostly. Delta, Porter-Cable, Ryobi, Bosch, Inca, Skil,
 Makita, Milwaukee, Freud, and others.

Industrial Abrasives   (800) 428-2222
642 N 8th Street   In PA (800) 222-2292 
Box 14955
Reading PA 19612
 Sandpaper, sanding drums, assorted abrasives.

International Tool Coorporation  (800) 338-3384
1939 Tyler St.    Florida (800) 221-6767
Hollywood, Florida 33020  Mon-Fri 7:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m EST
     305-927-0291 - Fax
 Bosch, Bostich, Delta, Fein, Freud, Hitachi, HTC, Milwaukee,
 Panasonic, Porter Cable, Rolair, Ryobi, Skil, Stanley.
 All Bosch Router bits are 40% off of list price.

Ivan Whillock Studio   (800) 882-9379 9-5 ET M-Sa
122 1st Ave N.E.
Faribault, Mn. 55021
 Tools, supplies, books, patterns, etc for woodcarving and
 other woodworking.

The Japan Woodworker   (800) 537-7820
1731 Clement Avenue
Alemda, CA 94501
 Top quality Western and Japanese tools - mostly hand tools like
 planes, chisels, knives, waterstones, saws, scissors.  Some power
 tool accessories like bits and blades.

JET Woodworking Machinery and Supplies  (800) 274-6848
POB 1477     (206) 572-5000
Tacoma, WA 98401
 Similar to Grizzly. Warehouses throughout the country.

J. Philip Humfrey   (800) 387-9789
3241 Kennedy Road, Unit 7,  In Canada (416)293-8624
Scarborough, Ontario M1V 2J9
(800) 387-9789 In Canada (416)293-8624
 Woodworking Machinery - Shop equipment, General, Excalibur, 
 Concord, Kraemer.

John Stortz and Son   (215) 627-3855
210 Vine Street
Philadelphia, PA 19106
 This catalog may not quite fit into this catagory but Storz is
 one of the only manufacturers of these kinds of tools. They specialize
 in the production of tools for masonry, roofing, shipbuilding, and
 cooperage. They normally sell to the trades and don't take chargecards.

Jordan International Co   (408) 429-8329
1303 Elmer St.
Belmont, CA 94002
 exotic hardwoods.

Klockit     (800) KLOCKIT 556-2548 M-F 8-8 Sat 8-4
POB 629
Lake Geneva, WI 53147
 Clock Kits. Mason & Sullivan catalog looked better.

Lab Safety Supply   (800) 356-0783 - Voice orders
PO Box 1368    (800) 543-9910 - Fax orders
Janesville, WI 53547-1368  (800) 356-2501 - Techline
     (800) 356-0722 - Customer Service
 Gloves, goggles, respirators. Excellent service. 500 page catalog.


Leichtung Workshops   (800) 321-6840 (24 hours)
4944 Commerce Parkway   In OH (216) 831-2555
Cleveland, OH 44128
 Kind of like Brookstone but gadget/tool ratio is much higher. 

Lee Valley Tools Ltd.   (613) 596-0350
P.O. Box 6295, Station J  (800) 267-8767
Ottawa, Ont.    (613) 596-6030 - FAX
K2A 1T4      Mon-Thurs 9-6, Fri 9-9, Sat 9-5
 "Fine woodworking tools. Several stores.  They have a main catalogue, a
 couple of supplements a year, and a hardware catalogue,  Even if you
 don't understand tools at all, the main catalogue is worthwhile
 getting as a coffee table book: glossy paper and beautiful presentation.
  It makes a wonderful read. They have everything from instrument-maker's
 to log builder's hand tools, Their bottom-of-the-line quality is quite
 servicable, and their top-of-the-line tools are Art, with accompanying
 prices.  The bottom line is: good selection, high quality, reasonable
 prices, *excellent* service. They design and manufacture many quality
 tools under the VERITAS label.

Lie-Nielsen Toolworks   (800) 327-2520
 Reproductions of discontinued Stanley planes in bronze.  Good quality.

Linden Publishing Co.   (800) 345-4447
352 W. Bedford #105   (209) 227-3520 Fax credit card orders
Fresno, CA 93711-6079   (209) 431-4736 Customer service
 Woodworking books. Lots.

Luthiers Mercantile   (800) 477-4437
PO Box 774    (707) 433-1823
Healdsburg, CA 95448   (707) 433-8802 - FAX
 Wood (esp. thin stock), hand tools, books, finishing and general
 supplies primarily for instrument builders, but also of general
 interest. 230 page catalog $10

Mason & Sullivan   (508) 778-0475 M-F 8-5
586 Higgins Crowell Road   (508) 778-0477 (after hours)
West Yarmouth,    Customer service:(508) 778-1056
Cape Cod, MA 02673
 Clockbuilding related items. Kits, tools, the works.
 Acquired by Woodcraft - See Woodcraft entry.

McFeeley's Square Drive Screws  (800) 443-7937
712 12th Street    (804) 847-7136 - FAX
P.O. Box 3
Lynchburg VA 24505-0003
 Square drive screws in a huge number of styles and materials;
 screw-related tools; general woodworking stuff like finishes and
 clamps.  The square-drive screws are great and well-priced, the
 other stuff is about 10% higher than the cheapest I've seen.
  Shipped via UPS the same day for my one order (so far).

Micro-Mark    (800) 225-1066
340 Synder Ave.
Berkeley Heights, NJ 07922
 Minature hand and power tools. 3" diameter table saws, mini
 drill presses, lathes, overhead mills, scroll saws,
 beltsander (1"X6"belt), bench grinder, router, radial arm saw,
 band saw, 4"disc sander, and lots of hand tools and accessories.
 Power miter with a maximum stock size of 3/8" thick by 3/4" deep
 at 90 degrees, 1/2" wide at 45 degrees.


MLCS Ltd.    (800) 533-9298
P.O. Box 4053
Rydal, PA  19046
 Router Bits

Moon's Saw Shop Supplies  (800) 447-7371
2531-39 N. Ashland Ave.
Chicago, IL 60614
 General woodworking supplies and router bits.  

MSC INDUSTRIAL SUPPLY CO.  (800) 645-7270
151 SUNNYSIDE BLVD.   (800) 255-5067 (FAX)
PLAINVIEW, NY 11803-1592
 Mostly tools and supplies for industrial machine shops  $25.00 
 minimum order but a 2,085 page catalog that they'll send you
 and monthly sale flyers.  An incredible array of tools, excellent
 service and fast shipping.

National Particleboard Association
18928 Premiere Court
Gaithersburg ND 20879
 Technical information on particle board.

Northern Hydraulics   (800)553-5545  24 hrs, 7 days
P.O. Box 1499    Minn: (612)894-8310
Burnsville, MN  55337-0499  FAX (612)894-8310
 All kinds of stuff - some woodworking.  Engines, compressors,
 lawn equipment, chain saws, wood spliters, hydraulic fittings,
 air tools, mechanics tools, tool boxes, work benches, playground
 sets, sun glasses, leather jackets, tool kits, winches, trailers,
 jacks, wheels, tires, tractors and even watches.

 Woodworking power tools include Milwaukee, Makita, Bosch, Ryobi,
 Porter Cable, Jepson, B&D, Skil, Wen and Delta.  Mostly portable.
 Sorted by tool type.  Average prices.  136 pages.

Paxton Beautiful Woods   (513) 984-8200
Frank Paxton Lumber Co
7455 Dawson Road
Box 43335
Cincinnati OH 45243
 Wholesale and retail lumber, newsletter and classes.

Philipps Brothers Supply         (800) 238-4466 (NY)
2525 Kensington Ave.             (800) 544-4466 (USA)
Amherst, NY  14226-4999
 A large list of power tools for woodworkers and construction
 professionals.  Prices seem pretty good, shipping is usually included.

Pro-Shop    (312) 832-3803
Box 721
Elmhurst, IL 60126
 Woodworking machinery. Imports.

Quaker State Woodworking  (800) 776-5467
 Portable power tools, sanding supplies, clamps, back issues of
 Woodsmith magazine.

RBI     (800) 487-2623
P.O. Box 369
1801 Vine St.
Harrisonville, MO 64701
 RBI Hawk saws

Renaissance Inc.   (216) 867-0630
644 Greenwood Ave.
Akron, Ohio 44320
 Sellers of Old Village finishing products, Old Strubridge Paint Colours
 and Buttermilk Paints as well as QRB Stripper and other restoration
 supplies.

R. Sorsky    (800) 345-4447
3845 N. Blackstone,   In CA (209) 227-2901
Fresno, CA 93726
 Woodworking books. Lots.
 (Acquired by Linden Publishing - see Linden Publishing entry)

Sandvik Tools (sales office)  (800) 481-7404.
 They don't do retail, but will give you a phone number for local
 distributers

Schlosser Tool & Machinery  (800)627-7297
301 Bryant    CO (303)636-1311
Denver, CO  80219   FAX (303)937-9267
 Mostly power tools - industrial, stationary and portable.  Includes 
 Skil, Porter Cable, Delta, Makita, Hitachi, Blum, Bosch, Ryobi, 
 DeWalt, Beisemeyer, Powermatic and others.  Some hand tools like
 Sorby.  Sorted by tool type.  Average to high prices.  75 pages.

Sears
Sears Tower
Chicago. IL 60606
...and just about every other city in the country.
 Power and Hand Tools Specialog.

Seven Corners Ace Hardware  Ordering: 800-328-0457
(Tools on Sale)
216 West 7th St.   In MN: (612) 224-4859
St Paul, MN 55102   Hours: M-F 8-5:30 CST
 Big catalog. Emphasis on portable power tools but they carry a wide
 range of tools and accessories.  Prepaid freight. "..good experiences.

Seyco     (214) 278-3353
P.O. Box 472749
Garland, TX 75047
 Excalibur saws

Shaker Workshops
P.O. Box 1028
Concord, Massachusetts 01742-1028
 Shaker furniture kits.

Shopsmith    (800) 543-7586
 Stores all over the US.

Sporty's Tool Shop  Orders: (800)543-8633 M-F 9:30-8, Sat 11-3
Batavoia, OH 45103  Customer service: (513) 732-2411
 Some tools. Mostly random stuff for house and yard.

Stone Mountain Power Tool Corporation (800) 262-9599
POB 2825    In GA (404) 446-8390
Norcross, GA
 Woodworking and Construction Tools. Name brands. Reasonable prices.

Suffolk Machinery   (800) 234-SAWS
12 Waverly Avenue   (516) 289-7153
Patchogue, NY 11722-1902  (516) 289-7156 - FAX
 Quality band saw blades

Swing-N-Slide Corp.
1212 Barberry Drive
Janesville, WI  53545
 Playground Equipment

Tarheel Filing Co   (800) 322-6641
3400 Lake Woodard Drive
Raleigh, NC 27604
 Stationary power tools, hand held power tools, router bits,
 saw blades.

The Fine Tool Shops   (800) 533-5305
170 West Road    In NH 443-0409
POB 7091
Portsmouth, NH 03801
 Good catalog, selection and prices. "...fast, reliable service"
 Possibly out of business, nobody answers the phone.

The Sanding Catalog   (800) 228-0000
P.O. Box 5069
Hickory, NC 28603-5069
 Sandpaper and assorted abrasives.

The Taunton Press   (800) 888-8286
63 South Main St.
P.O. Box 355
Newtown, Conn.  06470-9971
 Publisher of Fine Woodworking, Fine Homebuilding and numerous
 quality books on woodworking and homebuilding

The Wood Store    (717) 297-4188
POB 125
Troy, PA 16947
(717) 297-4188
 Hardwoods, carving blocks, basket strips, dollhouse lumber.

The Woodworker's Store   Orders: (612) 428-2199 M-F 8-8 CST
21801 Industrial Blvd.   Customer service: (612) 428-2899
Rogers, MN 55374
 WWS has 8 stores around the country also. Hardwood, veneers.
 Very good selection of hardware. Hinges, slides, locks, catches,
 pulls and other accessories.

Tool Crib of the North   (800) 358-3096
 Formerly Acme Electric. Good power too selection. All magor brands
 including Delta, Elu, B&D, Skil, Makita, Milwaukee, Powermatic,
 Bosch, Freud, General, Hitachi. Free freight.

Tools Etc.
Dept 458411 510 East Main St
Louisville KY 40202
 [No other information]

Trendlines    Orders: (800) 767-9999
375 Beacham Street         (800) 343-3248  Answering machine
Chelsea, MA 02150   Customer service: (617) 884-8882
 Woodworking tools and supplies. Good prices.

U.S General    Ordering: 1-800-645-7077
100 Commerical Street   Customer service: (516) 349-7275
Plainview, NY 11803

 **** APPARENTLY NO LONGER IN THE MAIL ORDER BUSINESS. ****
 Typical mail-order discount tool catalog. Name brand tools.
 Big catalog. Seem to be resonable prices. 24 hour phone.

Vandyke's Restorers   Orders: (800) 843-3320
4th Ave. & 6th St.   (605) 796-4425
PO Box 278
Woonsocket, South Dakota 57385
 Supplies for Upholstery, Antique Restoration, Taxidermy(!),
 wrought nails, several head patterns AND brass plated. Lots
 of antique reproduction hardware.

Warren Tool Co.    (914) 876-7817
Rt. 1 Box 14-A
Rhinbeck, NY 12572
 Carving tools (gouges, parting tools, tec) with interchangable
 bits/handles.

Whole Earth Access   (800)829-6300
822 Anthony Street   9AM to 6PM PST, 7 days a week
Berkeley, CA  94710   FAX (510)845-8846
 Hand Tools and Power Tools.  Sorted by type of equipment - not brand.
 Bosch, Porter Cable, Makita, Elu, AEG, Ryobi, Milwaukee, Hitachi,
 Skil, Panasonic, B&D, DeWalt and Delta.  Low to average prices.
 48 pages

Wilke Machinery Company   (717) 846-2800
120 Derry Ct.
York, PA 17402
 Woodworking machinery. Imports. Large selection.

Williams Tool & Hardware Supply (bankrupt) (800)788-0007       8AM-6PM CST M-F
2017 White Settlement Road  TX (817)335-4749    9AM-5PM CST Sa
Fort Worth, TX  76107   FAX (817)877-3150
 Stationary and portable power tools, hand tools and supplies.
 Includes Delta, Ryobi, Porter Cable, Hitachi, Bosch and Elu
 power tools.  Sorted by manufacturer.  Low prices.  32 pages.

Wood - Better Homes & Gardens  (800) 374-9663 subscription
Meredith Corporation   (800) 572-9350 back issues
1716 Locust St.
DesMoines IA 50336
 Publisher of Wood magazine

Woodcarver's Supply   (800) 284-6229 - Orders
P.O. Box 7500    (813) 698-0123 - Questions
Englewood, Florida  34295  (813) 698-0329 - Fax

Woodcraft    (800) 535-4482
41 Atlantic Avenue   From MA, HA, and AL call (617) 935-5860
PO Box 4000   M-F 8:30-6 EST Answering machine at other times
Woburn, MA 01888
Store at 313 Montvale Ave Woburn MA
 Wide range of tools for craftsman. Nice catalog, good prices, excellent
 delivery.

Wood Finishing Enterprises  414-871-0440
2438 North 48th Street
Milwaukee, Wis. 53210
 All types of finishing supplies.

Wood Finishing Supply Co. Inc  315-986-4517
1267 Mary Drive
Macedon, NY 14502
 **** APPARENTLY TAKEN OVER BY WOODWORKERS SUPPLY OF NM ****
 All types of finishing supplies. The catalog also provides some
 good informationon how to use the finishes.

Woodhaven    (800) 344-6657
 They make router accessories (tables, jigs, fences, adjustment
 handles, inlay bushings, etc).  Prices ok (not great), quality is
 high (table inserts are of 3/8" Lexan, for instance).

Woodsmith    (800) 444-7002
P.O. Box 10740
Des Moines, Iowa  50347-0740
 Publisher of Woodsmith magazine

Woodworkers Hardware   (800) 383-0130
PO Box 784
St. Cloud, MN 56302
 Drawer slides and other cabinet hardware.

Woodworkers Supply of New Mexico (800) 645-9292 8:30-5 MT M-F
5604 Alameda Place NE   (800) 321-9841
Albuquerque, NM 87113   (505) 821-0500
 Wide range of tools. Delta etc. Power tool emphasis.
 "...fast, reliable service"
 "Small but well rounded selection of hand tools, books etc."

"Woodwork: A Magazine For All Woodworkers"
Circulation Dept.
P.O. Box 1529
Ross, CA 94957
 Another general-interest woodworking magazine, with color and
 slick paper.  Appears to be aimed at people who aspire to being
 good enough to design and construct Fine Woodworking-quality
 projects, but aren't there yet.

Workbench    (816) 531-5730
KC Publishing Inc
4251 Pennsylvania Ave
Kansas City, Missouri 64111
 Publisher of Workbench magazine
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Archive-name: woodworking/tool-reviews
Last-modified: 7/20/94

Copyright (c) 1994 by James J. Roche. All rights reserved. 

Readers of this group often request reviews of particular tools. This article
is meant to be a pointer to tool reviews/comparisons. It is not a complete
list of sources for tool reviews. If anyone has any additions please send
me a note and I will try to add it in.


Air Compressors
 Portable Air Compressors - Fine Homebuilding October 1988
 Compressed Air Systems - Fine Woodworking June 1990

Air Tools
 The WORKBENCH Guide to Air Tools - Workbench October 1988
 Selecting a Spray Gun - Fine Woodworking June 1990
 High Volume Low Pressure Sprayers - Wood April 1993
 Woodworkings Sure Shots (nailers) - Wood December 1993
 Tool Talk: Finish Nailers - Popular Woodworking May 1994

Bandsaws
 Shopping for Bandsaw Blades - Wood December 1989
 Bandsaws - Wood October 1990
 Bandsaw Roundup - Wood April 1992
 Band Saws - Popular Woodworking September 1992
 Buyers Guide to Bandsaws - American Woodworker June 1994

Belt Sanders
 Portable Belt Sanders - Wood October 1990
 The WORKBENCH Guide to Benchtop Belt/Disc Sanders - Workbench September 1991

Biscuit Joiners
 The WORKBENCH Guide to Plate Joiners - Workbench April 1988
 Plate Joiners - Fine Woodworking June 1989
 Buying a Biscuit Joiner - Wood December 1992

Carvers
 Power Carvers - Fine Woodworking April 1991

Circular Saws
 Portable Circular Saws - Wood October 1990
 Portable Circular Saws (AKA sidewinders) - Fine Homebuilding November 1990
 Circular Saws - Consumer Reports November 1992

Clamps
 The Smart Shoppers Guide to Clamps - Wood February 1991

Cordless Screwdrivers
 The WORKBENCH Guide to Cordless Screwdrivers - Workbench April 1990
 Cordless drill/drivers - Wood October 1990

Cordless Drills
 Cordless drill/drivers - Wood October 1990
 Cordless Wonders - Wood April 1991

Cut-Off Saws
 Portable Electric Cut-Off Saws - Fine Homebuilding September 1990

Drill Bits
 Buying Forstner Bits - Wood February 1991

Drills
 The Great Electric Drill Shootout - Wood August 1990
 Survey of 3/8" VSR Drills - Fine Homebuilding June 1993
 Powerful Cordless Drill/Drivers - Fine Woodworking December 1993
 Buyers Guide to Cordless Drills - American Woodworker December 1993
 Tests of 47 Corded and Cordless Drills - Consumer Reports January 1994

Drill Presses
 Drill Presses - Wood October 1990

Dust Collectors
 The WORKBENCH Guide to Dust Collection Systems - Workbench February 1989
 Meet the Dust Guzzlers - Wood September 1992

Heat Guns
 The WORKBENCH Guide to Heat Guns - Workbench February 1991

Jointers
 Machines the Give You the Edge Quickly and Accurately - Wood October 1989
 Two New Jointers - Fine Woodworking February 1990
 Jointers - Wood October 1990

Lathes
 Lathes - Wood October 1990
 The WORKBENCH Guide to Lathes - Workbench May 1991
 Quality Lathes for Under $600 - Wood October 1993

Miter Saws
 The WORKBENCH Guide to Power Miter Saws - Workbench June 1988
 Getting an Angle on Compound Miters - Fine Homebuilding January 1990
 Power Mitersaws - Wood February 1992
 Tool Review Sliding Compound Miter Saws - Woodworkers Journal January 1993
 Buyers Guide to Sliding Compound Miter Saws - American Woodworker April 1993
 Sliding Compound Miter Saws - Fine Woodworking May 1993

Moisture Meters
 Taking the Measure of Moisture Meters - Fine Woodworking April 1994

Radial Arm Saws
 Radial-arm Saws - Wood October 1990

Random Orbital Sanders
 Tool Talk: Random Orbital Sanders - Popular Woodworking September 1991
 Random-Orbit Sanders - Fine Woodworking February 1992
 Random-Orbit Sanders - Wood February 1993
 Finishing Sanders - Wood April 1993
 Random Orbit Sanders - Fine Woodworking August 1993
 Random Orbit Palm Sanders - Woodworkers Journal Nov/Dec 1993

Routers
 The WORKBENCH Guide to Routers - Workbench April 1989
 Routers, Routers Everywhere - Wood February 1990
 Plunge Routers - Wood October 1990
 Tool Review Plunge Routers - Woodworkers Journal January 1992
 Plunge Routers - Fine Homebuilding January 1992
 Big Plunge Routers - Fine Woodworking December 1992
 Plunge Routers - Fine Homebuilding January 1992
 Buyers Guide to Plunge Routers - American Woodworker July/August 1993

Sabersaws
 What's New with Sabersaws - Fine Woodworking December 1990

Sawblades
 10 inch Carbide Tipped Sawblades - Wood September 1993

Sawmills
 The WORKBENCH Guide to Portable Sawmills - Workbench August 1989

Screw Guns
 A Survey of Self-Feed Screw Guns - Fine Homebuilding December 1993

Scrollsaws
 Scrollsaw Blades - Wood April 1990
 Scrollsaws - Wood October 1990
 Scrollsaws over $500 - Wood September 1991

Shapers
 Shapers - Wood December 1990

Shopsmith
 Shopsmith vs. Total Shop - Wood June 1990

Tablesaws
 How to Buy the Most Important Woodworking Machine in your Shop - Wood
December 1989
 Tablesaw Safety Devices - Fine Woodworking April 1990
 Tablesaws - Wood October 1990
 Tool Talk - Popular Woodworking July 1991
 Double Duty Tablesasw With Special Cross Cutting Features - Fine Woodworking
April 1992
 Tablesaws under $700 - Wood Feb 1994

Thickness Planers
 Portable Power Planes - Fine Homebuilding June 1989
 The WORKBENCH Guide to Planers - Workbench February 1990
 Thickness Planers under $500 - Wood April 1990
 Portable Planer Survey - Fine Woodworking October 1990
 Thickness Planers - Wood October 1990
 Portable Planers - Wood April 1992

Vises
 Woodworking Vises - Wood September 1990

Mail Order
 Mail Order Tools - Fine Homebuilding September 1990


Where to get back issues of magazines mentioned:

American Woodworker
PO Box 7591
Red Oak, IA 51591
(800) 666-3111

Fine Woodworking - Fine Homebuilding
The Taunton Press
63 South Main Street
PO Box 5506
Newtown CT 06470-5506

Wood - Better Homes & Gardens
Meredith Corporation
1716 Locust St.
DesMoines IA 50336
(800) 374-9663 subscription
(800) 572-9350 back issues

Workbench
KC Publishing Inc
4251 Pennsylvania Ave
Kansas City, Missouri 64111
(816) 531-5730

Popular Woodworking
Box 58279
Boulder, CO 80322

Woodworker's Journal
PO Box 1629
New Milford CT 06776
(203) 355-2694
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Archive-name: woodworking/motors
Last-modified: 3/17/94

Copyright (c) 1994 by James J. Roche. All rights reserved. 

This article answers many of the frequently asked questions about electric
motors. 


Motors:

    There are many kinds of motors, but this article considers only two
    kinds used frequently in woodworking tool applications: universal AC/DC
    motors and single-phase induction motors. Universal motors have brushes
    and commutators and are used for portable tools like routers, skilsaws,
    and electric drills.  Single-phase induction motors have no brushes,
    run only on AC electrical power, and are usually found on stationary
    tools such as table saws, drill presses, planers, and jointers.
    There are exceptions to this: some stationary tools use universal
    motors.

    Horsepower:  Motor horsepower is the most misunderstood (and misused)
    electric motor rating.  Neither motor, universal or induction, produces
    usable horsepower unless it is slowed down (by applied mechanical load)
    from no-load speed.  For induction motors, this slowdown is called
    "slip", and the horsepower "developed" by a motor increases with slip
    (to a simple approximation).  This is why induction motors are
    typically rated at 3450 rpm (two pole motor) or 1750 rpm (four pole
    motor).  The rating speed allows for slip from the "synchronous"
    speeds of 3600 and 1800 rpm, respectively.  Universal motors do not
    have a synchronous speed, but have a maximum no-load speed that depends
    upon the voltage applied to the motor.

    Most motors can put out a lot more maximum horsepower than they can
    sustain continuously.  By forcing more mechanical load on the motor,
    slowdown is increased and so therefore is the output horsepower.
    Mechanically, horsepower is torque times rpm, and increasing the
    mechanical load means that the rpm is slowed slightly and the drag
    torque is increased to obtain more torque times rpm.  Electrically,
    horsepower is volts times amps, and by conservation of energy, the
    mechanical output horsepower must be balanced by electrical input
    horsepower.  Since the voltage is relatively constant, this means that
    as a motor is loaded, the input current increases.  But the electrical
    winding impedance has a resistive component, so that higher current
    means more power dissipated in the windings.  In fact, the motor
    windings heat up proportional to the square of the motor current.
    Except for specially designed motors, the current that a motor can
    sustain continuously without burning out its windings is a fraction
    of the current at maximum load.

    Unscrupulous vendors sometimes publish maximum "developed" horsepower
    to make their products seem more capable than they really are.
    Developed horsepower may be two to five times the continuous duty
    rating of a motor.  Such products should be examined to discover the
    continuous duty rating to compare with other, more conservatively
    rated products.

    When the talk is of developed horsepower, the meaning is "peak" which
    for an induction motor is typically the local peak of the torque curve
    near synchronous speed.  A typical induction motor torque curve is:

          |
          |
          .                                            
          |.
          |  .                                        
   Dev.   _    .                                           .
          |      .                                    .      .
          |         .                               .         .
          |              .                        .            .
          |                       .             .
   Rated  _                              .                      .
          |
          |                                                      .
          |                                       
          |                                                       .
          |                                  
  Torque  |                                                        .
          |
          |
          |                                                         .
          |__________________________________________________________._
                                                                     |
          0                   RPM                              1800 or 3600


    As you can see, the curve is very steep in the operating region and in
    fact, the observed operation is typically that once you load the motor
    past the local maximum torque, the speed jumps to the corresponding
    point on the initial portion of the curve or simply stops.  The actual
    operation depends upon the shape of the curve near 0 RPM.

    The Rated HP is typically the torque level at which the motor can be run
    continuously without exceeding the temperature at which the winding
    insulation beaks down.  Since there is thermal mass involved, you can
    operate the motor at higher than rated torque for less than 100% of
    the time and not exceed this temperature if the motor is cool preceding
    the run etc. etc.  etc.

    Typically, two motors with different rated HP develop different HP in a
    ration close to the same as the difference in rating.


    The story is somewhat different for a universal motor such as is used on
    most hand held tools.  In these motors, for a given input voltage, the
    torque goes up as the speed goes down.  The more you load them, the slower
    they run until they stall, at which point their torque is a maximum.
    In this case, the developed horsepower is a the point along the torque
    curve where the speed X torque is a maximum.  As with the induction motor,
    the rated horsepower means you can run the motor there at 100% duty cycle.
    Again, you can load the motor more and it will produce more torque but you
    may only do this on a limited basis.

    The final word is heat.  If you exceed the winding insulation temperature
    rating, you will fail the insulation and ruin the motor ( or pop the
    thermal cutout if so equipped). 



    Application areas:  Universal motors are compact, have high starting
    torque, can run at high rpm, and deal well with rapidly varying
    loads.  They are often used with triac or thyristor speed controls.
    This makes them ideal for portable power tools.  Single-phase
    induction motors are efficient, have a limited rpm selection,
    are relatively heavy and bulky, and are almost maintenance-free.
    They work well in stationary tools that run at one rpm or that have
    a variable-speed transmission.

    Voltage: Both kinds of motors are supplied in popular mains voltages
    (115 or 230) but only induction motors are supplied with winding
    taps that allow either voltage to be selected.  As far as the motor
    is concerned, there is no difference in efficiency when selecting
    either 115 or 230 volts.  This is because such motors have two
    identical sets of windings that are connected in parallel for the lower
    voltage and in series for the higher.  Neither connection results
    in the individual windings seeing a different voltage.  However,
    inadequate wiring can make a difference to motor operation, because
    higher current at 115 volts may give unacceptable wiring voltage drops
    in some shops or garages.  Some wiring voltage drop is expected and
    built into the motor rating.  Nominal pole transformer output (to
    your house) is about 120/240 volts.  Motors are rated for 115/230
    volt operation, which allows for 5/10 volts wiring voltage drop.
    More voltage drop than this can cause low starting torque and
    overheating at rated load.

    115 or 230 volt operation makes no difference to your power company
    either.  The watt-hour meter at your electrical entry measures watts
    regardless of the voltage used.  Your power company does not give
    you a single watt for free, and your PUC (Public Utility Commission)
    won't let the power company charge more than the legal rates.
    Watt-hour meter accuracy is a matter of law in most States.

    Current:  Motors have a nominal current rating which is supposed to be
    the current at rated horsepower and rated voltage.  A motor will not
    draw exactly rated current except in the unlikely circumstance that
    the voltage applied is exactly the rated voltage and the load applied
    is exactly the rated horsepower.  As a matter of fact, most woodworking
    tools spend much of their life spinning without applied load and drawing
    only a small fraction of nameplate rated current.  When the tool begins
    to cut, motor current varies widely depending upon cutting load.  In
    some tools which have relatively small motors, motor current may approach
    several times rated current as the tool is momentarily loaded close
    to stall or breakdown torque.  An exception to this wide variation
    would be something like the motor driving the fan on a dust
    collection system; such motors operate at about rated horsepower all
    the time because the fan presents a constant load.

    For both universal and single-phase induction motors, the full-load
    current is given by

        I  =  (746 * hp) / (eff * pf * voltage)

    where eff is efficiency, pf is power factor, and the others are
    obvious.  In AC systems, the voltage and current waveforms are
    (nominally) sine waves and may differ in phase from each other
    by an angle called the phase angle.  There are 360 phase angle
    degrees in one sinusoidal cycle.  Power factor is the cosine of
    the phase angle, and for motors this angle is normally between
    zero and 90 degrees, current lagging voltage.  In DC systems,
    there is no phase angle, and power factor is defined as 1.0.

    Typical values for single-phase induction motors running at 115
    volts AC are pf = 0.8 and eff = 0.9.  This gives a rule-of-thumb
    value for amps/horsepower at 115 volts of

          9 amps / horsepower

    This figure is probably OK for rule-of-thumb comparison of induction
    and universal motors or reasonability checks as long as you
    remember that it is based on typical values.

    If you are contemplating operating a 115 volt universal motor
    on DC, performance should be slightly better at 115 volts DC
    than it was on AC.  The proper voltage to use is 115 volts DC.
    This is because AC voltages are given as RMS values, which
    are their power-equivalent DC values.  The tool will actually
    endure less voltage stress under DC operation because the
    peak voltage experienced under DC is 0.707 times the AC peak
    voltage.  Switches and contacts, however, may not last as long.

    Starting current can be as much as ten times rated motor current.
    This is usually not a problem for the circuit breaker feeding the
    motor, because modern circuit breakers are typically rated to trip
    instantaneously at about ten times breaker nameplate rating.  For
    currents less than the instantaneous value, the breaker trips due
    to internal heater elements which mimic the heatup characteristics
    of the wiring the breaker is supposed to protect.  Since starting
    currents last only a second or two (unless the motor is jammed),
    motors usually will not trip circuit breakers on starting current if
    the breaker is rated at higher current than the motor nameplate
    current.  This may not be true if you start the motor on a circuit
    which is already loaded close to rating.

    A motor may trip your circuit breaker on time-overcurrent (the
    heaters) even if the motor nameplate current rating appears to be
    within the breaker rating.  This can happen if you continuously
    overload the motor; motor current will then be several times the
    nameplate rating.  There may be other signs of this.  The motor may
    become extremely hot (spit sizzles on the casing).  This is General
    Electric's way of telling you to slow down.

    Breakdown torque:  Single-phase induction motors, unless they are
    designed for torquemotor operation, have a "breakdown" torque rating.
    This refers to the motor torque-versus-rpm curve, which has a peak
    torque somewhere between zero rpm and rated rpm.  If the motor is
    running and load is applied, the motor slows and torque increases
    until breakdown torque is reached.  At this point, further rpm
    reduction causes a reduction of motor-supplied torque, and the motor
    rpm reduces rapidly to zero (it "breaks down").  This is why a saw,
    for instance, appears to suddenly stall as it is overloaded.

    Ventilation: Most motors have one of two kinds of ventilation: fan-
    cooled open housing, or totally enclosed, fan-cooled (TEFC) housing.
    In the former type, a fan attached to the motor shaft draws air
    through the internal parts of the motor and blows it out of
    ventilation slots cut into the motor housing.  Most universal motors
    are of this type because of the need to cool the brushes and to
    exhaust brush carbon dust and commutator copper fragments.  In the
    TEFC type, the motor housing is completely enclosed and no air
    gets to the internal parts of the motor.  Instead, internal heat
    is conducted through the metal housing to fins, where air blown
    by an external fan removes the heat.  Some induction motors have
    this kind of (more expensive) ventilation and they are often used
    in applications where excessive dust or flammable conditions exist.

    Drive gear:  Surprisingly enough, even though many people will look
    at motor horsepower rating, they often completely ignore the drive
    gear attaching the motor to its load.  The drive gear is often a clue
    to the real power rating of the motor-drive combination.  It's
    difficult to determine the rating of enclosed gears, but v-belts
    can give an immediate visual clue.  While larger pulleys increase
    a v-belt rating, a nominal rule of thumb is about one horsepower
    per 1/2 inch v-belt.  Two 5/8 v-belts on large pulleys may be good
    for 4 or 5 horsepower.  One small belt on a motor which "develops"
    3 horsepower is cause for some suspicion.  Actual belt drive ratings
    can be found in manufacturers handbooks (see Gates, for example) or
    in Machinery's Handbook.

    Motor Starters:  Motor starters are big relays mounted in expensive
    metal boxes with heater overloads matched to the motor they start.
    They serve two purposes: 1) The relay contacts are heavy duty and
    are rated for the motor starting current.  Delicate contacts, such
    as those on a pressure switch, will fail if used directly to
    start a large motor.  Delicate contacts are therefore wired to
    operate the motor starter relay rather than the motor.  2)  Wall-
    mounted circuit breakers are designed to protect building wiring,
    not motors plugged into wall receptacles.  If your electrical box
    circuit breaker trips before your motor burns up, it is incidental,
    not on purpose.  However, motor starters are designed to trip on
    heater overload before the motor they start burns up.

    How much horsepower:  This question is often asked and has no easy
    answer.  This is because the amount of horsepower you need depends
    upon your patience, your preferences, and the way you use the
    machine in question.  Here are some pros and cons.  A larger
    horsepower motor (and associated drive gear) has a thicker shaft
    and is typically more robust than a smaller horsepower motor.  It
    responds to overloads and hard cuts more strongly, and may not stall
    in your application.  It does not use very much more power, since
    electric motors use only power demanded plus some motor losses (which
    are somewhat larger for higher rated motors).  On the down side, the
    initial expense of the motor and drive gear is greater.  Higher
    horsepower often requires 230 volt wiring.  The motor and associated
    drive gear and mountings are heavier.  A smaller horsepower motor
    is cheaper, lighter, and may run on 115 volts.  For a careful worker,
    the torque supplied may be sufficient.  On the down side, the tool
    may stall more often and wet wood may be impossible to cut.  The
    drive gear may be less robust and may require more maintenance.  If
    the tool is operated in overload, the 115 volt circuit breaker may
    trip.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Archive-name: woodworking/wood-bend
Last-modified: 7/19/94

Copyright (c) 1994 by James J. Roche. All rights reserved.


This FAQ on bending wood is provided courtesy of Gregg Germain. Any
comments would be welcome. Comments should be directed to 
gregg@hrc2.harvard.edu.

 I've been in the business of steambending wood for about 7 years now.
I've built a variety of steamboxes and tried a number of boiler
systems. What you see written here is a combintation of reading and
actual experience. Mostly experience.

 All of my steam bending has been with either Oak or Mahogany. I've
never tried any other wood as I do this work in my
boatbuilding/restoration. So I cannot comment authoritatively on
bending other woods like cedar, pine, poplar etc.

 And if I haven't actually DONE it, I will not comment on it. I will
not state anything here that i have ONLY read out of a book and not
tried.

 With that in mind, let's fire up the boiler....

 To start with there are several rules of thumb which work quite well.

 What you are doing when you are steaming wood for bending, is
loosening up the "glue" that holds the fibers of the wood together.
you need BOTH heat and steam for this. I realize that some people in
Asia "fire" bend their wood but invariably, that wood is quite wet -
typically quite green. The Norse boatbuilders used to get their planks out for
shipbuilding and sink them into a salt water bog to keep them limber until the
time came to use them. However, we are not always so lucky as to get green
wood for our bending and you can have great success with kiln dried wood.

 You need heat and you need moisture.

 The primary rule is the one for steam time:

 One hour of steaming per inch thickness of wood.

 I have found that you can OVERSTEAM as well as understeam. If you
steam an inch of wood for an hour, try to bend it, and it cracks,
DO NOT assume that you haven't steamed it enough. There are several
factors involved which could explain the result - but we'll get to
those later.

 It is smart, however, to have a piece of stock in the steam box that
is the same thickness as the piece you wish to bend, and that is
expendable. PREFERABLY a piece taken from the stock itself. Steam that
with the target piece, and after the requisite steaming time, take the
test piece out and try to bend that to the mold. If it snaps, then
give your piece MAYBE 10 minutes more. But no more.

The wood:

 Generally it is best if you can get green wood. I know that this
makes the cabinetmakers among us shudder. But the plain fact is that
green wood bends easier than dried wood. For those of us that have to
worry about rot, the act of steaming green wood removes the tendency
of green wood to rot. So no worries there - boat ribs are typically
made from steam bent oak and will not rot in a well cared for boat.

 But i've done a lot of steaming of kiln dried oak and it works fine
too.

 Steamboxes:

 It is not necessary - and is in fact detrimental to the bending
process - to have a steambox that is absolutely airtight. You WANT
steam to be emanating from the box. If you don't get a flow through of
steam you will not be able to bend the wood - it will crack as if you
steamed it for only 5 minutes.

 I know - i've created a lot of kindling in this manner. 

 Steamboxes can come in many shapes and sizes. You want one big enough
so that you can suspend the wood off the surface, and get a good flow
of steam around most of the wood surface. A box made of 2 x 8 pine
boards will work. One suspension method is to drill a hole through the
sides and run a hardwood dowel through. The dowel holds your wood up
and minimizes the amount of wood touching a surface. You don't want
the box to be SO big, however, such that the amount of steam your rig
generates is too small to fill up the box. You want a wet, steamy box
BILLOWING steam. So the box has to be sized to the boiler (or the
boiler sized to the box ;^) ).

 I have 2 boxes:

 For small stuff like 1 1/2 x 5/8 by 6 foot long oak for ribs, I use a
2 inch diameter piece of PVC. I have it resting on a 2x4 so that it
won't deform under the heat. I've also nailed sides to the 2x4 so that the
tube doesn't flatten.  For a boiler i use a whistling tea kettle
with the whistle and top taken off. A length of radiator hose connects
the kettle to a suitable reduction on the end of the PVC. For a heat
source i use one of those counter top electic burners.

 Works great.

 When I had to steam bend 17 foot long, 7 inch wide, 3/4 inch thick
mahogany for the new cabin trunk of my boat, I used a steambox built
with 2 x 12 inch pine. For a boiler i had a 20 gallon steel boiler.
Heat source was a propane burner I bought at Ace Hardware Store. This
burner is GREAT because it's convenient and mobile. It's an aluminum
bowl on 3 legs with one burner about 8" in diameter. Generates
sufficient heat.

 Now when I say "one hour of steaming per one inch of wood" I mean one
hour of SERIOUS steam with NO interruptions. Therefore you have to
pick a boiler whose capacity will be sufficient for the steam time you
are looking for. 

 NEVER put the wood in the steambox unless you have full steam and the
box is completely filled. Be ABSOLUTELY certain that you don't run out
of water BEFORE the necessary steam time. If you do, and are forced to
add more water give it up...you'll generate kindling. Best to stop the
steaming process and let the wood cool for 24 hours and try again.

 One way of maximizing the water use is to have the box tilted at an
angle so that any condensation within the box runs BACK towards the
boiler.

 Many steam boxes have a door at one end to allow you to slide in
pieces when you want to - and take them out when needed. For example,
in ribbing out a boat - something you'd like to do in a day if you
can, you crank up the boiler and (when steam is up) you put in your
first piece of wood. 15 minutees later you put in the second. Fifteen
minutes later the third and so on. Then, when the first piece is
ready, you yank that out and bend it. This is all supposing that the
process to bend and install the rib takes less than 15 minutes. When
the first rib is in, the second piece of wood is ready..and so on.
This allows you to do a great deal of work while avoiding
oversteaming.

 The door serves another important function. And the door doesn't have
to be solid either - on my small steam box i LOOSELY stuff in a rag. I
say loosely because you want steam to be able to come out of the end
(remember you need steam flowthrough). The secondary purpose is to
preclude cool air from entering the steambox underneath the suspended
wood. 

Bending:

 Assume you have the wood cooking (it makes a nice smell) and the jig
is ready. Take pains to place everything so that the operation of
removing a piece from the box and bending it is a FAST SMOOTH
operation. Time is CRITICAL. 

       You have only seconds.

 When the wood is ready take it QUICKLY out of the box and bend it. 
GET CURVATURE ON THE WOOD!!!!!!!!!!! As fast as humanly possible. If
inserting the wood on the jig is complicated, bend it with your bare
hands (if possible). 

On ribs for my boat - where there is a curve in 2 directions, I 
take it out of the box, slip one end into a brace and bend that end
then bend the other end with my hands. Try to bend it MORE than the
amount you need in the jig. Sometimes you can feel the wood "give" as
you bend it - this is good as it will retain the shape better. Then
slap the wood on the jig. 

 But I repeat you MUST get curvature on the wood immediately - like
within the first 5 seconds. Every second the wood cools it becomes
less flexible.

 Length of wood and curvature at the ends:

 There is practically NO WAY you can cut a piece to exact length and
expect to get curvature near the ends. You simply don't have the
strength and you will be thwarted by springback.

 By the same token, if all you need is a 3 foot length, and
the wood is greater than, say, 1/4 inch thick, you had better cut the
piece 6 feet long and bend THAT. You can trim the wood to fit later. I
am assuming the lack of some sort of hydraulic press in your shop - i
know i don't have one. Cut the stick overlong remembering that the
shorter the stick the harder it is to bend.

 And if you cut it overlong, you'll have more curvature near the final
finished end - the last 6 inches of a 1 inch thick piece of oak will
be dead straight. Depending upon the curvature you need, you may have
to resort to carving the curvature out of the end of the wood and
should size it with that in mind.

 Jigs:

 When you steam bend apiece of wood, and clamp it to a shape, you wait
24 hours for it to cool thoroughly. When you take it off the jig, that
wood will spring back somewhat. How much depends upon the grain and
the type of wood - it's hard to say. If your stock has a natural curvature 
in the required direction to start with (I try to take advantage of this
whenever possible), you will get less springback.

 So if you have to get a certain curvature to the final product, make
your jig with greater curvature.

 How much?

 Tis is the realm of black magick and I can't personally give you a
figure. One thing I DO know is this:

  It's infinitely easier to unbend some wood that was overbent,
than it is to put MORE bend in a cool piece of wood (assuming you
don't have incredible leverage). 

 Once caveat: if you are bending pieces that will be glued together to
form a laminate, be sure that the jig is the exact shape you need at
glue time - I rarely get much springback from well bent, glued wood.

There are an infinite variety of jigs you can build. No matter what
type you choose, you can't go wrong if you own a clamp making factory
- - you can never have too many clamps. If you are bending wood greater
than 1/2 inch thick you must see to it that the jig is built extremely
strongly: the amount of stress on it is quite high.

 Quite often people will use a metal strap along the outside of the
wood as they bend. This helps to distribute the stesses along the
length of the wood and helps to prevent cracking. This is especially
true if you get grain runout at the outside edges.

 Well that's all i can think of now. If i think of more I'll add it to
the FAQ.

--
Jim Roche
roche@cs.rochester.edu
University of Rochester Computer Science Department Rochester, NY 14627

