Archive-name: birds-faq/pets/part1
Last-modified: 1993/12/05
Version: 4

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  There was an old man of Dunrose;
  A Parrot seized hold of his nose.
  When he grew melancholy, They said, "His name's Polly,"
  Which soothed that old man of Dunrose.

        --Edward Lear
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     * * *  W  E  L  C O  M  E    T  O     T  H  E F  A  Q  * * *
   Freqently (A)sked (Q)uestions regarding rec.pets.birds.

     P A R T  I
     ==========

This is a monthly posting of topics regarding birds that may prove
useful to those new to this group or to the rewarding hobby of keeping birds.
Or, more accurately, of your bird keeping you!

Comments, suggestions, chocolates to: Jodi Giannini (giannini@nova.umd.edu)
This FAQ, as a collection of information, is copyrighted 1993,
by Jodi L. Giannini, and distribution by means other than Usenet is by
permission only.  Removal of this copyright notice is not permitted.

Thanks, gratitude, and pats on the back to: Rocky Giannini for proofreading
and
doing the technical type stuff, Tom Baker for archiving and the Appleworks
version of this FAQ, Ruth D. Miller, Larry J. Brackney, Kate Finn, Kelly
Flynn and all of the other rec.pet.bird readers who contributed--Thank you
very much!

Topics that are covered in Part 1 are: Bird magazines, books, and the like;
Basic bird terminology; Choosing/Buying a bird; Cages, perches and Bird toys.

Part 2 covers Diet and feeding; Taming and training; Travel with birds;
Finding an avian vet; Health; Hazards; and First Aid.

Part 3 covers Birds and Lung Cancer.

Species Specific Faq's cover the named species: Poicephalus.

***This FAQ is by no means meant to replace the many wonderful and informative
books, breeders, magazines, and veterinarians that are out there.***


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   B  I  R  D -  M  A  G  A  Z I  N  E  S - B O  O  K  S  -  E  T  C
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 ==MAGAZINES==
*Note: Information is as current as possible, but costs do change.  All
 the magazines are published  monthly unless otherwise noted.

 AMERICAN CAGE BIRD MAGAZINE        BIRD TALK MAGAZINE (Subscription Dept)
 One Glamour Court         P.O. BOX 57347
 Smithtown, NY, 11787         Boulder, CO, 80323-7347
 1-800-359-BIRD (2473)                 (303) 786-7306
 *One year $21.95 (U.S)                *One year $25.97 (U.S.)
 Canada and Foreign add $6.00        Canada add $8.00 plus 7% GST
 U.S. Funds, International M.O.        Foreign add $12.00 International M.O.
 Visa and Mastercard accepted       California residents add 7.25% sales tax


 CAGE BIRD HOBBYIST (Quarterly**)      PARROT WORLD (Bi-monthly)
 P.O. BOX 427          8 No. Hoffman Lane, Dept. BT
 Neptune, NJ, 07753-0427        Hauppage, NY, 11788
 No number available         1-800-538-8184
 *One year $9.00 (U.S.)                *One Year $21.95 (U.S)
 Canada and Foreign add $4.00        Canada $29.95 (U.S. Funds)
 U.S. Funds only         Foreign $37.95 (U.S. Funds)
 **Should be going monthly        Visa, Mastercard, American Express
 sometime soon          Checks and Money Orders accepted


==BOOKS==


*Note: These are some of the books I've found useful.  They are nice for the
hobbyist, being not so much for the science of breeding.  They're a good
start.
Bird Talk has monthly book reviews, and you may want to ask your vet or
breeder to recommend some titles to you.

         Guide To A Well-Behaved Parrot
         by Mattie Sue Athan
         ISBN 0-8120-4996-9
         Barron's Publishers
         Copyright 1993

 You and Your Pet Bird (softcover)            The Bird Care Book (softcover)
 by David Alderton         by Sheldon L. Gerstenfeld, V.M.D.
 ISBN 0-679-74061-9         ISBN 0-201-03909-5
 Alfred A. Knopf, Publisher        Addison-Wesley Publishing Company
 Copyright 1992          Copyright 1981

 The Complete Book of Parrots        Seed-Eating Birds (softcover)
 by Rosemary Low         (finches, canaries, and such)
 ISBN 0-8120-5971-9         by Jefferey Trollope
 Barron's Publishing                          Sterling Publishing
 Copyright 1988          Copyright 1992


==ETCETERA==


 Sally Blanchard's Pet Bird Report
 Bimonthly publication
 $18.00 U.S.A.
 $26.00 Canada
 PBIC/The Pet Bird Report
 3435 N.W. 56th Street, Suite 700-BT
 Oklahoma City, OK, 73112
 (405) 945-4299
 Sally Blanchard is a bird behaviorist who is a regular columnist with
 Bird Talk Magazine.  This newsletter has tips about training, taming,
 why birds do what birds do, and all kinds of information for bird owners.

 There are also all kinds of videos about birds available through the
 various classified ads in bird magazines.  They might be worth a look.
 Bird clubs are wonderful too. I recently joined one myself.  It was just
 great to meet other bird people, ask questions, and get all kinds of
 information.  It's really a good idea. A great source of information is your
 local breeder.  Most breeders will gladly take time to answer questions.


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      B  A  S  I  C    B  I  R D     T  E  R  M  I  N O  L  O  G  Y
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BLOODFEATHER--Any feather which still has a blood supply to it.

CHROMOSOMES--a male bird has two Z(sex)chromosomes and a female one Z and
       one W. These can be seen under a microscope and are used in chromosome
       analysis to determine the sex of the bird.  (See KARYOTYPING)

CITES--(C)onvention on (I)nternational (T)rade in (E)ndangered (S)pecies.
       This body regulates trade of parrots throughout various countries.
       Most parrots are on CITES Appendix 2, which means that the country
       that is exporting the birds may only issue export permits if the
       exportation of the bird does not endanger the survival of the species.
       Extremely rare and threatened species go on Appendix I, which means
       any sort of exportation is explicitly forbidden and illegal.  Palm
       Cockatoos and Hyacithine Macaws are an example of CITES Appendix I
       birds.  As of this last Faq update, importation of Amazon parrots
       has stopped completely (Appendix I status).

CLOSED-BAND--a completely closed ring of metal that can only be put on a
       bird within a certain time, usually from 8-10 days in a small bird and
       up to four weeks in the larger species of birds.  The bands
       are usually imprinted with hatchdate and place of origin.  They are
       generally accepted as proof of domesticity and age.  However, some
       unscrupulous people may force a closed-band onto an imported bird. Look
       for a band that seems too big.

COCK---Any male bird of a species.

DIMORPHIC--A species is said to be dimorphic when there are distinct visual
       characteristics between the sexes.  Gray Cockatiels are an example of
       this; a male bird has a bright yellow head.  Eclectus are also
       dimorphic, the male bird is green, and the female, red. Eclectus are
       unusual in that the female is more colorful than the male. This is
       called "Reverse Dimorphism".
       (See MONOMORPHIC)

DOMESTIC--A bird that has been bred within the country.

FEATHER SEXING--See KARYOTYPING

FLEDGLING--A baby bird that is out of the nest, but not eating by itself.

HAND-FED--also "Hand-reared" or "Hand-raised".  The babies are taken from
       parents at about two weeks, and then fed by people, using spoons,
       pipettes or syringes and a special baby-bird formula. This results
       in a bonding of the bird to people, and a friendlier, more tame
       bird.

HEN----Female bird of any species.

IMPORTED--A bird brought in from another country.  An imported bird will have
       an open-band on its leg.

KARYOTYPING--A method of sexing which is non-invasive. A drop of blood is
       taken from the bird, usually by pulling out a bloodfeather.  The pulp
       and blood from the feather is then cultured until there are enough
       cells to do a chromosome preparation.  The number of chromosomes then
       is looked at to determine the sex of the bird.  (See SURGICAL SEXING)

MONOMORPHIC--Both sexes of the bird appear identical.

OPEN-BAND--This type of band, which is squeezed shut around the bird's leg
       is indicative of an imported bird.

PARROT FEVER--See PSITTACOSIS, ZOONOSES

PBFD---(P)sittacine (B)eak and (F)eather (D)isease.  A serious viral disease
       which is *highly* contagious. There is no cure. PBFD causes deformed
       feathers which fall out, the beak softens and becomes misshapen, and
       the virus can affect internal organs.  Birds usually die of a secondary
       infection of some sort. The virus can be spread through the feces and
       feather dust and the virus can be found in the birds' crop as well. It
       can affect several different species of birds, but is most common among
       Cockatoos.

PSITTACOSIS--A curable bacterial disease that can affect BOTH humans and
birds.
       It's also called "Parrot Fever", "Chlamydiosis", and "Ornithosis".
       Psittacosis is spread through inhalation of feather and fecal dust.
       Bacterial tests can detect it.  The disease manifests itself with
       flu-like symptoms in people.  Infected birds are quarantined (isolated)
       and treated with Tetracycline or another broad-spectrum antibiotic.

QUARANTINE--A period of isolation required for imported birds. These birds
       are often given various medications to insure that they do not carry
       Psittacosis or other contagious diseases.  Also, it is a good idea
       to isolate a sick bird from other pet birds or birds in an aviary.

SURGICAL SEXING--Also abbreviated as S.S.  or S/S.  Since many bird species
       are monomorphic, one way to tell one bird from the other is to
       do it surgically, using a method called laproscopy.  The bird is
       anesthetized, and a small slit cut into the bird's body. A tiny
       incision is made and a laproscope is inserted, allowing the vet to view
       the reproductive organs, thus sexing the bird.

WEANED--The bird is out of the nest, and eating on its own.  In hand-fed birds
       the bird is no longer on baby formula and eating seeds and other
solids.

ZOONOSES--A zoonosis (singular) is any disease of animals that can be
       contracted by a human being.  There are over 100 types of these.
       One of the most widely publicized is Psittacosis (SEE PSITTACOSIS).
       For reasons like this, all imported birds must be quarantined upon
       entering this country. (See QUARANTINE)


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  C  H  O  O  S  I  N  G    A  B  I  R  D
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***HELP! WHERE DO I BEGIN?***
 First, you want to take into consideration these things:
 1. What can I afford?
Cost varies according to the type of bird being purchased.  You can get a pair
of Finches for about twenty dollars, a Budgie for about the same.  Cockatiels
range from $40 to $100, Amazons $250 to $800...and a Hyacinth Macaw can
command upwards from $6,000! Set a budget, and work from there.  But let the
buyer beware of "bargain birds"--they're usually not worth it.  Hand-fed birds
are well worth the extra cost.

 2.  How much space will the bird need?
The larger birds and even some of the smaller ones, are very active and need
large cages and areas to play in. It's not fair to cramp a bird in a small
cage.

 3.  Do I have the *time* for a bird?
This is probably the most important question.  Birds are intelligent, playful,
and most of all, *social* animals. Will you have time to play with your bird?
To properly care for it?  Will you have an opportunity to be part of your
family? Also, consider time in this sense--Birds are rather long lived.
A little Cockatiel can live up to 20 years!  An Amazon or a Grey, could live
50 or 60, there are documented cases of some birds living to be 100! Can you
commit to that?!  It's not unusual for birds to be passed down to another
generation. Don't buy a bird if you think you will quickly tire of it.

 4.  How noisy is the bird? Will the neighbors complain?
Budgies and Cockatiels are rather quiet.  They are good for apartment
dwellers.
A Moluccan Cockatoo could work in an apartment, as long as you have neighbors
on the sides and sixth floor that like to listen to head-splitting screams.
Aratinga conures are noted for their squawking--Sun Conures belong to this
genus. Pyrhurra conures (I have one) are rather quiet.  Of course, there are
variations due to the personality of the bird. There may be a quiet Cockatoo
somewhere. If there is, someone should market it, they'd make a fortune.

 5.  How destructive is the bird?
Do you have priceless heirloom furniture?  Rare books? Keep in mind that birds
have powerful beaks.  Some birds are less prone to "chewing" than others.

 6.  Does the bird need a special diet?
Lories and Toucans, for example, require specialized diets.  Do you have the
ways and means to provide it?

Once you you've done your research and decided what kind of bird you want,
now is time to go out and buy a bird.  Never, ever, buy a bird on impulse.


==WHAT DO I LOOK FOR WHEN I BUY MY BIRD?==

 First off, you want to make certain you get a healthy, happy bird.
 In general you want to look for:

 1.  An alert disposition.  The bird should be interested in its environment.
     It should be active.  Avoid puffed-up and sleepy-looking birds.

 2.  Feathering: Make sure feathering is shiny and without bare patches.
     On long-tailed species like Macaws, take a good look at the tail.
     If there are thin lines running across tailfeathers, it's usually a good
     indicator of poor nutrition. Please note that baby birds often look
     rather tatty, with the feathers somewhat frayed. This is normal. Lutino
     Cockatiels will have a bald spot, which varies in size behind their
     crest. This is genetic and cannot be helped.  Although do try to avoid
     'tiels with extremely large bald patches. 

 3.  Eyes: The eyes should be bright and clear.  There should be no discharge.
     There should be no swelling.  

 4.  Nostrils should be clear of any blockages.  They should be of the same
     size and shape.  In birds with bare facial patches (Macaws) the skin
     should be clear and white.  A flush of red sometimes indicates an
     infection of the sinus cavities.  A scaly appearance of the cere (fleshy
     part around nostrils) indicates scaly face (common in Budgies) a disease
     caused by mites. 

 5.  Upper and lower parts of the beak (the mandibles) should meet cleanly,
     with no signs of separation. In Cockatoos, the beak should be grayish,
     covered with powder.  Never buy an older Cockatoo with a shiny black
beak.
     is a sure indication that something is wrong. Baby Cockatoo beaks will
     be somewhat shiny.

 6.  Feet should have all toes, although a missing toe or claw for a pet isn't
     a bad thing. It is however, out of the question for a show bird.
     More than one toe or claw gone will hamper the bird's perching ability.
     The bird should be able to grip its perch or your hand firmly.
     The feet of a young bird should be smooth and soft.  Older birds have
     feet which are more scaly.  Excessive scaliness is not good, and can be
     indicative of vitamin A deficiency.

 7.  Breathing should be regular and even.  No wheezing, snorting or straining
     allowed.

 8.  The bird should not be too skinny.  To check for this, ask someone to
     hold the bird while you feel along the sides of its keel (breast) bone.
It
     should be well fleshed out.  If you can see the keel protruding,
     the bird is obviously underweight, and might be suffering some illness.

 9.  While the person has the bird, have them turn it over and check the
     vent area.  It should be clean and clear of stains or pasted feces.

 10. Ask to handle the bird yourself.  Observe it.  Is the bird steady? Calm?
     Does the bird come readily to you?  Does it show good socialization 
     behavior? Did it bite the ($*# out of you?

 11. Look to see if the bird is banded.  This is indicative of imported or
     domestic birds, depending on the type of band used.

 12. Aside from the bands, another way (not so accurate) to tell a baby or
     younger bird is by looking at its beak and feet.  In a young bird, these
     are soft and smooth.  Older birds have scaly feet and beaks that show
     wear.  Also, in some species, the eyes change color as the bird ages.
     Baby Greys and Timnehs have dark eyes which lighten. Macaws' eyes
     lighten, too.


==I'VE SELECTED MY BIRD AND I'M BUYING IT. WHAT SHOULD I DO NOW?==

  1.  You should make sure that if the bird does not pass a vet exam, you
      have the privilege of returning/exchanging the bird within a certain
      and reasonable amount of time. Some dealers include a vet check in
      the purchase price, but ask if you can take the bird to your vet as
      well.

  2.  Get a *written* bill of sale, clearly stating the terms of the sale,
      which really should include:

 A. The privilege to return the bird if it is not up to par.
 B. Date of purchase and any other conditions of sale.
 C. The amount that you paid for the bird, method of payment (cash, etc)
 D. The bird's band number.
 E. The hatch date of the bird
 F. A full description of the bird, scientific name, any unusual marks,
    and the bird's sex (if known)
 G. If the bird is imported, get all the proper documentation for it.

Such information might prove useful when retrieving a stolen bird, or if you
should ever have to prove ownership of your avian amigo.

  3.  Get written instructions on diet, care, and such.

  4.  Get the number of the breeder/store and the number of an avian vet,
      if you don't have one already. (Which you should!!!)


==GETTING POLLY HOME==


  Bringing the bird home in a cage would make sense, but it is less stressing
  for the bird if you bring it home in a secure, darkened carrier. A cardboard
  box with some airholes in it is ideal for small birds.  A plastic carrier
  the ones for used for cats and dogs, and covered with a towel is excellent
  for larger birds.  Move the birds individually whenever possible.  For a
  journey of an hour or so, no food is needed. For a long haul, sprinkle some
  food on the floor of the carrier. Use firm, moist fruits to provide liquids.
  Never put the birds in the trunk of a car. Try not to stop too often.

  Try to have the cage already set up at home. You can then put the new
  arrival into its new cage, and let it rest and get used to the new scenery.
  It is a good idea to isolate it from the rest of your pet birds. Two weeks
  is a fair time.

  If you are buying a bird that will have to be airshipped, you will pay
  for a carrier and the airfreight.  You may also pay what is called a
  "crate" or "box" fee.  You will then pick up the bird at the nearest
  airport.


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     B I  R  D    C  A  G  E  S     A N  D  P  E  R  C  H E  S
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==CAGES==

   Q. What size cage do I need to get for my bird?
   A. Get the largest you can possibly afford. This is where the bird will
      spend a great deal of it's time. A good rule of thumb is
      that the bird should be able to stretch out its wings fully in at
      least one direction. Note that "outstretched wing length" refers to
      the span of the *unclipped* wings.

   Q. Is bar spacing important?
   A. Yes. If it is too large, a smaller bird could hang itself.
      1 3/16 is a good space for medium birds and 1 3/8 is good for larger.
      3/4 inch spacing is fine for cockatiels, smaller than that for finches.
      (repectively 3.02, 3.50, and 1.90 cm)

   Q. What about horizontal vs. vertical bars?
   A. Horizontal bars are nice for the birds because they're easy to climb.
      Vertical bars make it hard to climb, but don't fray long tailfeathers.
      Cages are now available that have vertical front and back bars and 
      horizontal side bars.  This should please everyone.

   Q. What kind of metal is used for the cages?
   A. Anodized aluminum, Brass, stainless steel, wrought iron.
      For some of the smaller cages for less destructive birds, wood and
      clear acrylic sheeting, like Plexiglas(tm), may be used.

   Q. I'd like a colored cage...can I get one?
   A. Some cages are available with a "powder coat finish" so you can get
      them in different colors, however, birds can eventually gnaw the finish
      off.  There are epoxy painted cages as well.  Some cages come in
      wood cabinets, and you can order custom designs to match your decor.

   Q. Do I need a wrought iron cage with those fancy curlicues?
   A. Nope.  The fancy stuff can be hard to clean, and the bird can get
      caught in it.

   Q. What's a knock down cage?
   A. It's a cage that comes shipped flat and unassembled. Nut and bolt
      assemblies hold it together.  Be careful if you have a mechanically
      inclined bird, it might loosen screws. Check the every so often.
      One piece cages are just that. They're completely assembled and welded
      together.

   Q. I've seen great deals on cages, should I get one?
   A. Sure, as long as it's sturdy and safe.  Check for sharp corners,
      poor latches, shoddy paint. Paint can be toxic and if the bird gnaws on
it
      disaster could ensue.  Look at the welds.  Are they smooth and virtually
      invisible?  Give the cage a good shake. Does it stand firm, or sway
      precariously?  This is your bird's house we're talking about, here.
      When in doubt, don't buy it.  Be extra careful about imported cages,
      they can be painted with lead paint or be shoddily made.  One thing
      that is often ignored is the tray in the bottom of the cage.  Make
      sure it has smooth, finished edges.  I recently came across a cage
      that looked great, until I pulled out the tray.  It was simply a
      piece of galvanized metal with a front lip.  The back and sides weren't
      finished, and they were rather sharp.  Even with a grate, I wouldn't
      use such a tray.  Improbable accidents do happen, and I wouldn't want
      my birds to lose a toe or worse because I wanted to save a few bucks. 

   Q. I don't have the money for a new cage, how about a used one?
   A. As long as the bird didn't die of some contagious disease, it should
      be fine. Disinfect the cage thoroughly.  One text I came across
      suggests taking a portable blowtorch and searing the cage.  This
      would definitely kill any yuckies, but would melt anything other than
      a thick steel or iron cage.  A disinfectant used in avaries would 
      probably be great.

   Q. Where should the cage be placed?
   A. Never in direct sunlight!  But a bright area close to the hubbub of
      your household is ideal. There should be no drafts of hot or cold
      air.  The kitchen, due to fumes, flames, and such is a poor idea.
      Dreary basements are a poor choice too.  A finished basement is fine,
      as long as it's not damp and has good circulation and there's action
      going on that the bird can be part of.

   Q. Do I really need to cover the cage?
   A. Depends on the bird. Birds, like people, need undisturbed sleep.
      If the bird is in a room you can darken, then no, you don't need a
cover.
      Sometimes, the bird may be scared of the covered cage.  Other times,
      birds may refuse to go to sleep if the cage isn't covered, and will
      holler for it.  If you turn down the heat in your house at night,
      covering the cage is really a good idea. You can get custom covers made
      to fit any size or shape or use a sheet or a blanket. Covering a cage
      can help reduce screaming at the break of day.

   Q. How do I clean the bird's cage?
   A. Warm, soapy water and a sponge work well.  You may want to use some
      sort of disinfectant. Rinse well no matter what, and make sure that
      everything is dry before putting the bird back in.

   Q. What should I use for as a tray liner?
   A. There are several options, and much debate over what is best.
      You could use: no liner, gravel paper, plain newsprint paper, shavings,
      processed cobs, newspaper.  Birds should not ingest any of the above,
      although plain paper isn't harmful, it will get soiled. A grid above
      the tray will prevent ingestion of liner material and any dropped and
      soiled food. Newspaper itself is not toxic, but some inks are. You can
      call your local paper to find out what type of ink they use. Soy-based
      inks are non-toxic.  No liner means you've got to scrub out the pan,
      to which the poop has probably cemented itself.  Processed cobs can
      actually be used with or without a grid, but make sure your bird
      doesn't eat them. There is commercially prepared gravel paper, but
      it's hard to find in the larger sizes and the gravel usually doesn't
      stick to it very well, and ends up all over.

**HELP! My bird is an escape artist!***
      Sammy, the green-cheeked conure (Pyrrhura molinae) kept escaping from
      his cage via the sliding door, and the food accesses.  I "wired" them
      shut with Quick Links(tm)--c-type links.  They were easier than messing
      with those plastic "pine tree" type garbage bag ties.  You may have to
      use padlocks with larger birds.  However some of them are *very*
      mechanically inclined (especially Cockatoos) and may very well pick the
      lock.  For the die hard cases, use combination locks.

   SOURCES FOR CAGES:
*Note: I went shopping for cages. These I wrote to.

   Animal Environments   Inglebrook Forges
   2270 Camino Vida Roble, Ste. 1 151 N. San Dimas Canyon Rd.
   Carlsbad, CA, 92009   San Dimas, CA, 91773

   King's Aviary                        Quisenberry Enterprises
   256-8 Craft Ave.   915 Glen Arrow Hwy.
   Rosedale, NY 11422   Glendora, CA, 91740

*This is who I ultimately purchased from:

                    The Pet Ranch
                    3015 Pioneer Way
                    Jamul, CA, 91935
                    (619) 669 - 1089
                    
A wrought iron Macaw cage (24 x 36 x 65 inches) was 249.00 plus 54.29 
shipping  (from CA to MD, mind you).     
A Cockatoo cage was 199.00  (don't know shipping) (prices as of 10/14/93).
                    
                   
==PERCHES==


   Q. What kinds of perch(es) does my bird need?
   A. Your bird needs an assortment of perches of varying diameter, to provide
      exercise, to prevent foot injuries and such ailments as sores and
      arthritis. 

   Q. Where should the perches go?
   A. Your bird should be able to climb all over his cage, so place the
      perches accordingly.  Stagger them, and make sure there's enough
      clearance for the bird to sit up comfortably. Nobody likes to bonk
      their head!

   Q. What can the perch be made of?
   A. Wood--the plain round ones are everywhere.  There's manzanita and
      madrone, maple, and apple wood.  They can be made from PVC and
      from acrylic, like Plexiglas(tm) but these should be sanded slightly
      to roughen up the otherwise slick surface.  There are rope perches,
      there are even concrete perches, like Polly Perfect(tm) which help
      to keep beak and nails in trim.

   Q. What shape should the perch be?
   A. They range from round to flat to elliptical.  Provide at least two
      different shapes. The different shapes and textures keeps muscles
      healthy, nails trimmed and prevents sores on the feet.

   Q. What about those sandpaper perches?
   A. Okay, but make absolutely certain the bird has another perch to sit on.
      Or only cover half the perch with the sandpaper cover.

   Q. Rope perches in the pet store are expensive! Can I get them elsewhere?
   A. Sure. It was posted to the net that they can be purchased at boating
      suppliers.  Make sure you get all cotton-rope that hasn't been treated
      with chemicals.  Ropes are great for feather-pickers, but watch out
      for fraying, and replace the rope when it gets too frizzy.
      Booda Bones(tm) makes Byrdy Cable(R) rope bird perches if you'd rather
      buy them from a pet store.

   Q. Can I make my own perches?
   A. Definitely. Use wood that you know is untreated, and cure it.
      Make sure there's no bugs or anything nasty like that in or on the wood.
      Cure it until it's thoroughly dried out.  Leave the bark on, birds love
      to peel it off.

   T-stand type perches are useful aides in the training of your birds.
   We use one for the conure's "potty."


   SOURCES FOR PERCHES Manufacturers of cages will often offer perches.
   Manufacturers of toys will sometimes offer perches.

   Aries Manufacturing (Manzanita perches)    Avian Adventures (acrylic)
   4480 Treat Blvd. Ste. 201        P.O. Box 92136
   Concord, CA, 9421         Warren, MI, 48902-0136
           $2.00 for brochure, refunded with
           order.


================================================================================
    B  I R  D  I   E  T  O  Y  S
================================================================================


 As has already been mentioned, birds are playful and intelligent. A bored
 bird is a dead bird, basically.  So it stands to reason that birds like--
 and need playthings.

   Q. What size toy do I need for my bird?
   A. Well, a big bird needs a big toy, and a small bird, a small toy.
      If you give the bird the wrong-sized toy, injury is possible.
      Most toys are labelled for small, medium, large, and extra-large
      birds.

   Q. What kind of toy should I buy?
   A. Depends on the bird. Some love bells, some like twirly, spinning toys,
      some like rawhide leather to chew on.  Some prefer "hand-held" toys over
      those that hang from the cage.  Wood is a good choice for any bird, it
      exercises the beak.  Fabric is excellent for feather-pluckers.  It
      all depends on your bird, and sometimes, finding the right kind of toy
      can be a hit-or-miss endeavor.  

   Q. How many toys should the bird have?
   A. The bird should have a variety of toys, but only two or so in the cage
      at a time.  Rotate the toys about every two to three weeks so the bird
      doesn't get bored.

   Q. My bird seems terrified of the new toy, what do I do?
   A. Some birds can be suspicious of any new thing, including toys.  It seems
      that a lot of African Greys are like this.  The best thing to do is to
      put the toy on the floor of the cage or playpen. When the bird starts
      poking at it and taking and interest, then try hanging it up.

***HELP! My bird HATES the twenty dollar toy I bought for it!***
      Try putting it on the floor of the cage (see previous question)
      If this doesn't work, then you're pretty much out twenty dollars.
      Taste is a personal thing, and birds definitely do have preferences.
      Don't be upset or mad at the bird if it didn't like what you picked out.
      And definitely do not stop giving your bird toys!

   Q. One bird chews, one bird plucks. Are there any special toys for them?
   A. For chewers, try wood toys, if they destroy that, try an acrylic, which
      will last longer. Manzanita wood is really hard, too.  Try toys by
      Manzanita Munchies and Naughty Acrylics(tm). For pluckers, try rope
toys,
      like Byrdy Cable(r) by Booda Bone(tm) or the Polly Dolly(tm) by Lucia.
      The Polly Dolly(tm) has lots of different colors and cloth to pick at.

   Q. How do I clean the toys?
   A. A mild soap and warm water will usually do the trick.  Rinse and rinse
      and rinse, and then dry well.

   Q. What are some dangers of toys?
   A. Hanging, either by getting caught in a clip used to attach the toy,
      (avoid those metal shower curtain hangers) or by getting wrapped up
      in a leather strip, or a getting hooked in a chain.
      Fibers from rope and cloth toys can be wrapped around toes, cutting off
      circulation and resulting in the loss of a toe or even a foot.
      If the toy is shoddily made from cheap materials, it might break off,
      and parts could be ingested.  Paint might be toxic.  Make certain that
      the clapper in the bell cannot be pulled out and eaten.  Make sure the
      bell, clapper or other metal toys do not contain lead or lead paint.
      Be careful how you attach a toy.  Some birds can unscrew C-links and
      might tighten them onto a toe or their tongue.  Others seem to always
      get tangled in hanging ropes or chains. If this is the case, give
      your bird a "hand-held" toy when you can't be around, and carefully
      observe playtime with hanging toys.

   Q. Can I use some household items for toys?
   A. Sure.  Toilet paper *tubes* (not the toilet paper) seem to be resounding
      favorites, and they're cheap!  Ping-pong balls are popular, along with
      ball-point pen tubes (with the ink cartridge removed)  We have a
      ten-speed set up as an exercise bike in the living room, and our
      four birds love to "go biking" more than anything.  Plastic measuring
      spoons and cups work well, and Josie the cockatiel loves to play with
      the plastic caps to soda bottles.  But one of the best ideas has to
      come from brackney@ecn.purdue.edu (Larry J. Brackney)  who writes:


  " My wife and I are firm believers in giving our birds baby toys.  They
are typically MUCH cheaper than bird toys, and generally hard to destroy.
All of our birds love interlocking plastic toys: hearts, fish, etc.  And
you can buy them at discount and toy stores.

   We also have good luck getting toys at the local Goodwill.  They usually
have a bin of $0.25 baby toys (plastic doo-dads, teething rings, etc.)  We
usually pick through them, and try to pick out toys without small parts
that can be broken and swallowed.  Once home, we wash and sterilize the
toys. "

---------

   SOURCES FOR TOYS: These are ones I've seen in my local pet shops.


   B is for Bird Toy    Fowl Play
   6740 William Ln    108 Charmont Dr.
   Lincoln, CA, 95648    Radford, VA, 24141


   Polly Dolly Texture Toy   Thee Birdie Bordello
   P.O. Box 997     P.O. Box 2906
   Comfort, TX, 78013    El Segundo, CA, 90245

================================================================================
  E  N  D    O  F    P  A  R  T    O  N  E    *last revised 10/15/93*
================================================================================


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Archive-name: birds-faq/pets/part2
Last-modified: 1993/12/05
Version: 4

================================================================================

  There was an old parrot of Steen,
  Its musical sense was not keen;
  People found it quite odd,
  That Polly sang "God-
  Save the Weasel" and "Pop Goes the Queen."

       --Unknown
================================================================================


     * * *  W  E  L  C O  M  E    T  O     T  H  E F  A  Q  * * *
   Freqently (A)sked (Q)uestions regarding rec.pets.birds.

     P A R T  II
     ===========

This is a monthly posting of topics regarding birds that may prove
useful to those new to this group or to the rewarding hobby of keeping birds.
Or, more accurately, of your bird keeping you!

This FAQ, as a collection of information, is copyrighted 1993,
by Jodi L. Giannini, and distribution by means other than Usenet is by
permission only.  Removal of this copyright notice is not permitted.

Part 2 covers Diet and feeding; Taming and training; Travel with birds;
Finding an avian vet; Health; Hazards; and First Aid.

Part 3 covers Birds and Lung Cancer.

Species specific Faq's cover the named species: Poicephalus.

Topics that are covered in Part 1 are: Bird magazines, books, and the like;
Basic bird terminology; Choosing/Buying a bird; Cages, perches and Bird toys.




================================================================================
    F  E  E  D  I  N  G - D  I  E  T - T  R  E  A  T  S
================================================================================


   Q.  What can I feed my bird?
   A.  For hookbill, a pelleted diet is a good choice, with seeds as a treat.
       Finches and canaries are naturally seedeaters, but should have
greenfood
       as well.  Finches also do well to have some live food occasionally.
       Some canaries (red-factors) need color food which is high
       in beta-carotene or uses an artifical coloring to maintain their red.
       Lories and other brushtongued parrots eat a special nectar. Toucans and
       Toucanettes need a diet low in iron and will eat livefood.  You can
feed
       your bird just about anything that is good for you, but birds seem
       to have a tendency towards vitamin A deficiency, so keep this in mind.
       Birds can eat fruits, veggies, low-fat yogurt, an occasional bit of
       cheese, lean meat--chicken and turkey are good, cereals like corn
flakes
       or crisped rice, whitefish. An occasional nut is fine, but be careful
as
       nuts are very fatty and peanuts which are moldy can give a bird
       aspergilliosis. Basically it seems anything that is good for you is
good
       for your bird.  There is raging debate over what exactly is a good
diet,
       but it seems that a vet-recommended pellet diet, with a little seed,
       and a choice of fruits and veggies daily is a good ch oice. Each pellet
       in a pelleted diet has been made so that it is nutrionally complete.
       Also, there is a "pulse" diet, which is a mixture of seeds, nuts and
       various legumes (beans, etc) which is good as well.  You can also
       feed your birds prepackaged diet supplements that are cooked, like
       Crazy Corn (tm).  Most birds love stuff like that.

   Q.  Okay, then, what CAN'T my bird eat?
   A.  Chocolate, Alcohol, Avocado, Rhubarb and Caffiene are toxic to your
birds.
       Never feed them to your bird.  Some seeds and pits are also toxic, but
       seeds from melons are okay.  Foods that are high in fat, salt and
       sugar are no-no's too.

   Q. What functions are vitamins and minerals needed for? What are symptoms
      of deficiency? What foods provide these necessary dietary components?
   A. Birds are just like people, vitamins and minerals, along with trace
      elements are required for growth and maintenance of homeostasis
      (regulation of body).  A balanced diet will provide the nutrition
needed.
      For charts and information in detail about avian vitamin needs, check
      books or get a copy of December 1992 Bird Talk Magazine. It features an
      article by Tom Roudybush, who developed Roudybush feeds.

   Q. Does my bird require a special diet/supplements?
   A. Certain species need special diets.  For example, Lories live on nectar.
      African Greys are susceptible to Calcium deficiency, which leads to
      seizures.  Birds which are molting need more protein. Breeding and
      brooding birds need a boosted diet too.  Sick birds may require a
      diet different from the usual.  Consult your vet.

   Q. Do I have to feed my bird live food?
   A. Live food--crickets, grubs, worms, pinky mice (hairless babies) are
      good sources of protein for breeding and brooding birds and pets.
      You can get them from pet stores or mail-order. Your bird may refuse
      to eat them.

   Q. Do I need to use a vitamin supplement?
   A. A balanced diet is always better than a poor one supplemented with
      vitamins, but there may be a case when your bird will need them.
---------
      This is a summary/commentary of dietary supplements.  It has been 
      graciously contributed by Kelly Flynn (kelly@cco.caltech.edu).

      I've been spending a lot of time reading and talking to people about
      diet recently, because I want to make the best choices I can. We 
      really don't know much about avian nutrition (heck, we can't figure out
      human nutrition)! I think the least we could do is to keep an open mind.
 

BENE-BAC (for birds)

      After reading a post about Bene-Bac, I went ahead and called up
      PetAg (1-800-323-0877) and asked them to send me some information
      about the product. The woman I spoke to was very nice and said they
      would send a sample. When I received the information, I found they 
      were kind enough to include a 15 gram tube of Bene-Bac (good for 
      about 15 applications for a large bird!) and a 1oz package of their 
      powder (which i didn't know existed.) Their material states the 
      following:

      Bene-Bac offers:

      A concentrated live culture of five common digestive bacteria found
      in the intestinal tracts of birds. A guaranteed 10 million colony 
      forming units (CFU) per gram of viable lactic acid producing bacteria.
      A concentrated energy source. Help for birds and reptiles under 
      adverse conditions such as: showing, breeding, traveling, worming,
      surgery, weaning, boarding, antibiotic therapy, simple intestinal
stress.

      Bene-Bac is a palatable gel in an easy to use syringe (My finicky Macaw
      *loves* the taste of the gel).

      Bene-Bac is recommended as part of the management program for birds 
      when hand feeding or weaning from handfeeding. Use with growing or
      mature birds when they are subject to changing nutritional or to 
      environmental conditions or after antibiotic therapy. If diarrhea or
      anorexia (loss of appetite) persists, contact your veterinarian.
      Bene-Bac is recommended as part of a normal maintenance program.

      GEL INGREDIENTS:
         Dried Lactobacillus fermentum, dried L. casei (avian strain), dried
         Streptococcus faecium, L. plantarum and L. acidophilus fermentation
         products, vegetable oils, sugar, silicon dioxide, artificial color,
         polysorbate 80 preserved with TBHQ and ethoxyquin.

      POWDER INGREDIENTS:
         Dextrose, maltodextrin, dried Lactobacillus fermentum, dried 
         L. casei (avian strain,) dried Streptococcus faecium,
         dried L. plantarum and dried L. acidophilus fermentation products.


      Finally, I've been reading more about supplying beneficial bacteria
      to birds under stress. There definitely seems to be studies which 
      support that parent delivered (regurgitated) food encourages faster 
      chick growth (when compaired to hand feeding). Many people also 
      feel that the parents' supply of beneficial bacteria helps encourage a 
      healthier chick with faster growth. However, studies also show that 
      the bacteria work best if species specific. In other words, its 
      very questionable if Lactobacillus strains for humans (commonly 
      found in yogurt,) are as good for birds as avian strains (like 
      found in Bene-Bac or AviGuard by Pet Med Tech.) Even better would 
      be strains from a Scarlet Macaw for other Scarlet Macaws or ideally, 
      from a parent bird (if this is to be used for handfeeding,) of the 
      chick. Avian specific strains can be established in the gut of a 
      bird more readily than other strains. 
      If you have further questions about this product, I urge you to call
      PetAg at the number listed in the beginning of this section.

SPIRULINA: This is what harrison's puts in their pellets, and it's high in
      beta carotene and amino acids. It's expensive, 100 grams cost $15, at a
      recommended rate of 1% of the diet. I'm guesstimating this is 1/8 to 
      a 1/4 of a teaspoon per portion of soft food. My brand is 'Bright and 
      Healthy' by Earthrise.

LACTOBACILLUS ACIDOPHILUS: I'm hoping it will help up the weight of a low
weight
      bird who is slightly stressed by a recent move. My label ('Aviguard'
      by Pet Med Tech "contains 3 avian strains of stabilized L.a. in a 
      lactose base, store in a cool dry place or refrigerate") suggests
      a dose of 1/4 teaspoon of L.a. per 1 cup of formula and to use the
      treated formula for 4 consecutive days and repeat for 2 consecutive 
      days every other week until weaned. For dry dosing, 1/4 teaspoon on 
      moist food sufficient to feed 1-3 birds. Treat for four consecutive 
      days. It also has an expiration date. $17 for 2 ounces.

AVIA (For Birds by Nutra-vet Research Corp.): This has
      a nice range of vitamins, minerals *and* amino acids. Dosage for a 
      macaw is 1/2 - 3/4 teaspoon per portion of food, once a day. It was
      recommended by a friend who I respect and trust, and once I started
      comparing it to other vitamins, it just seemed more complete. 
      Unlike several other brands, which I had noticed contained 
      preservatives, Avia does not use artificial means of extending the 
      product's shelf life. Also, there are no ils or lecithin in this 
      formula.  This is very important, in that these additives can 
      promote spoilage and alter the nutrition content.
      I like the fact that this is put on food, since I feel the vitamins are
      best absorbed when food is being digested, instead of taking them on an
      empty tummy, it is also better than giving the vitamins alone or 
      using the vitamins in the bird's drinking water.  Vitamins in water 
      become inactive quickly and also can encourage bacterial growth in the 
      water.  Many birds  don't like the colored or funny tasting water, 
      or will not accept them in water.  $5 for 2 ounces.

SUPER PREEN:  This is a dry powder, which is to be sprinkled on moist foods.
      More information to follow.

PRIME:  No information available at this point.

PROPER STORAGE AND ADMINSTRATION OF SUPPLEMENTS:
      One thing that I noticed about supplements and packagings is that
      the Spirulina and Avia are sold in opaque containers. This
      is desirable, since sunlight and heat will breakdown vitamins rapidly.
      To prevent further breakdown of nutrients, store the supplements in a
      cool, dark place. I wish *all* supplements had expiration dates, 
      since I worry about the effectiveness of something that has sat on 
      the shelf for a while. Perhaps buying direct from the company would help
      insure freshness. I also like getting small containers that which are 
      sealed, and can be resealed.  The small containers enable me to use the
      product, and not let it sit on the shelf, so I can buy more fresh 
      as soon as I run out.
      As for applying them, you want to follow directions on the label. The
      vitamin coating should be *very* light, and even starting with lower
      than recommended amounts might be a good idea if your bird is picky
      over the slightest change in diet. More will NOT be better, and could 
      hurt your bird. Also be careful if you're feeding a pelleted diet 
      which very likely already has vitamins included. 
      Do not try to give your bird a number of supplements all at once.
      Try to concentrate on one particular supplement, then perhaps 
      alternate the other supplements with it.  I have also discussed my
      supplemental plan with my veterinarian, who believes that it will,
      in the very least, prove helpful.  I suggest that you do the same. 
      No doubt the vet will have at least one insight into your supplemental
      plan.  
    
----------


   Q. Does my bird need grit?
   A. Welcome to the great grit gridlock. Everybody has a different opinion
      on this issue. The current opinion is that birds that eat mostly soft
      food and fruits don't need grit; a bird which eats mostly dry seeds will
      need grit. However, some people don't even give grit to birds which
      supposedly "need" grit.  They claim that it makes the bird lose weight.
      There is also the danger of crop impaction when a bird is given grit.
      Birds kept in aviaries with dirt floors will pick granules off the
ground,
      so it is not necessary to provide grit to them. If you do feel your bird
      may need grit, try to get a soluble kind, as it will eventually dissolve
      out of the bird's crop and in doing so will provide calcium and other
such
      minerals. Oyster shell grit is ideal.  A bird will only need a few
      grains of grit.


   Q. What can I give my bird as a treat?
   A. An occasional treat or reward is a nice thing for a bird.  It might
      be a bit of favorite fruit/veggie. Cheese, a commerically prepared
birdie
      treat, a spray of millet, a bit of people food (Sammy conure gets
      a teeny, teeny bit of pizza when we order one) a nut is a nice treat
      too, and it's fun to play with. Remember, if the treat seems miniscule
      to you, recall that you are much bigger than your bird, so adjust the
      serving accordingly.

***HELP! My bird won't eat anything but seeds! What do I do?!***
      Be patient.  Some birds will just refuse to eat pellets outright.
      There's nothing to be done in a case like that.  There are various
      opinions on how to convert a seed-eater to pellets.  Cockatiels are
      notably the most stubborn.  The process can take anywhere from two
      weeks to two years.  You begin by mixing in some pellets with the seed
      and gradually, decreasing the amount of seed and increasing the
      pellets. Veggies and fruits have to be presented daily. Some birds
      will not eat sliced carrots, but will eat them shredded or whole. Keep
      this in mind when serving the bird.  It may like its apple quartered
      instead of sliced. Experiment. Birds like things that are fun to eat.
      Peas in a pod, whole beans, melon is good, and birds love the seeds.
      Broccoli seems to be widely and nearly immediately accepted.  Try
      skewering a fruit or veggie, and then not only is it food, but a toy!
      Keep trying.  Some people just take away the seed all at once, and
      let the birds get hungry enough until they break down and eat the
      pellets. But you have to be careful, some birds would rather starve than
      try something new, or it might be that they are unable to recognize
      the pellets as "food" because it doesn't fit their picture of "food"
      (seeds). In such a case, watch for all-black droppings, it means the
bird
      is starving to death. You may have to try different brands of pellets as
      well. Patience is the key to this, and well worth it.  It helps the
birds
      to lead healthier--and fuller, more active lives.


   SOURCES FOR PELLETED DIETS:
*Note: According to several netters, (actually their vets) the general opinion
seems to be that Pretty Bird diets are terrible, and Purina is even worse. 
But
this is all opinion.

   Lafeber Company        Lake's Ultimate Avian Diet
   BT7 92  RR#2         639 Stryker Avenue
   Odell, IL, 60460        St. Paul, MN, 55107
   1-800-842-6445        1-800-634-2473

   Roudybush Feeds        Scenic Bird Foods
   P.O. Box 908         Marion Zoological Inc.
   Templeton, CA, 93564        113 N. First P.O. Box 212
   1-800-326-1726        Marion, KS, 66861
          (Avialable only through
           Veterinarians, and certain
           dealers)


   Harrison's Bird Foods
   c/o  HBD  Inc
   1830 F Street
   Pawnee City, NE, 68420
   1-800-346-0269


   SOURCES FOR COOKED SUPPLEMENTS

   Crazy Corn          Flights of Fancy
   13330 Bessemer Street        1594 Hilltop Drive
   Van Nuys, CA, 91491         El Cajon, CA, 92020-8227
   1-800-BIRD-YUM  (1-800-247-3986)           1-800-776-MEAL (1-800-776-6325)


   SOURCES FOR LIVE FOOD

   Grubco          Rainbow Mealworms
   P.O. Box 15001         126 E. Spruce Street
   Hamilton, OH, 45015         P.O. Box 4907
   1-800-222-3563         Compton, CA, 90224
            1-213-635-1494 for
            inquiries, information.
            1-800-777-9677 (orders)


================================================================================
 T  R  A  I  N G - T  A  M  I N  G - T  R  I C  K  S - P  L A  Y  I  N  G
================================================================================



==TAMING/TRAINING==

   Q.  How soon do I begin?
   A.  Right away!

   Q.  What supplies do I need?
   A.  A T-stand, a perch, a towel may be necessary, an area free from
       distraction, a positive attitude, and lots and lots of patience.

   Q.  Does clipping my bird's wings help in training?
   A.  Yes, it does.  Not only that, it's a good saftey measure.
       If you take the time, it is possible to do a clip that really isn't
       visible and looks pretty good.  Wing clipping is painless, and
       the bird isn't going to hate you for it.  (see HEALTH section)

   Q.  Okay, I have what I need, now what?
   A.  Establish a routine, and stick to it! Birds are creatures of routine,
       and one that is consistent will help the bird feel more secure.
       Establish taming/training time, say, for an hour every day at two.
       Then just do it! Every day.

   Q.  But I have a hand-fed baby bird, not an older, untame bird.  Do
       I really need to "tame" it?
   A.  You will need to train the bird to respond to an up command, and
       learn to stay on its perch when you put it there.  Hand-fed babies
       are naturally friendly and tame, but they need discipline and rules
       too!

   Q.  What's the UP command?
   A.  The UP command is a rule for your bird. When you say UP, the bird
       knows it is to step on the perch or hand/arm you are offering it.
       The DOWN command is used when setting the bird down.
        --TO TEACH THE UP/DOWN COMMAND--
       Take your bird to the training area.  Put the bird on its t-stand.
       Now, take your finger,hand, or arm (or use a dowel/perch) and press
       it against the bird's legs. The bird will then step up onto the perch.
       As the bird steps up, say "<bird's name> Up!" Praise the bird.  Place
       the bird back on the t-stand, say "<name> Down!".  Repeat this.  It
       seems that most birds can learn this in about fifteen minutes, but
       results and birds vary. Always be patient, and no matter what
       happens with training, never, ever hit your bird.  Being patient,
       gentle and most of all consistent, are the best things you can do.

    Q. My bird is stick trained, but *hates* to perch on my finger or hand.
       What do I do about this?
    A. You have two choices, one using the perch, and the other using
       a training towel.  Holding the stick on which the bird is perched,
       slowly tip one end of the perch up, so that it's higher than the other.
       A bird will instinctively go to the highest perch, and this would be
       your hand. Drop the perch away once the bird is on your hand. The bird
       might jump off when it feels the skin of your hand. Then there is the
       training towel. Get a neutral colored towel (white, beige, etc).
       Put the towel on the floor, and the bird on the towel.  Gradually bring
       the corners of the towel up until the bird is enclosed. This may take
       a while, a week or two, or maybe even just ten minutes. If it gets
       to the point where your bird is calm about this, reach under the towel,
       and place the bird's feet on your finger/hand/arm.  Once the bird is
       perching, drop the towel's sides down.  The bird may stay on or hop
off.
       Keep working until you get results. Once again, be consistent and
       patient.

    Q. I'd like to teach my bird to talk. How do I do that?
    A. Some breeds talk better than others, and even that can vary by
       individuals.  Greys are supposed to be the best talkers.
       Start with something simple like "Hello" and just repeat it to the
bird.
       Once again, consistency and patience is the key.  Once the bird picks
       up a few simple words, it may very well start learning on its own.
       There are also CD's and tapes with phrases on them.  It's a good idea
to
       teach your bird its phone number and address in case it escapes or gets
       stolen.

    Q. Can I teach my bird to be quiet?
    A. All birds need some time to mouth off, but constant screaming is a
       problem.  But you simply cannot punish a bird for doing what comes
       naturally.  First, think about when the bird screams.  Is it in
       the morning and at night? This is normal and natural.  Is the bird
       near a loud TV or stereo or a window that has bustle and hustle going
       on outside? Or is the bird in place where it can hear but not see
       things that are going on around it? Did you forget to feed the bird?
       Did you forget to water the bird?  I'd scream too, if I was 
       hungry! Try moving the cage.  Never yell at the bird, this is
       a reward of sorts for it.  If the bird is screaming in its cage,
       try covering it for about five minutes. It should quiet down.  Remove
       the bird when it's quiet.  Try to provide more toys for the bird
       if left alone frequently.  Reinforce *positive* behavior. This can be
       hard to do...we're more inclined to notice bad behavior than good.
       Each bird is unique and may require a different approach to remedy
       its screaming.  You can consult with a animal behaviorist to help
       in really bad cases.

    Q. Can I teach my bird tricks?
    A. Yes. Once again, ability and inclination varies by individuals.
 Cockatoos seem to be the best at physical tricks.  Tricks are taught
 by gradual conditioning towards the desired behavior.  There are
 books and videos on how to teach a bird to perform tricks. One
 such book is published by Parrot Mountain.

     Parrot Mountain Handbook
     (potty training, tricks, etc)
     $7.95 and $3.00 shipping and handling (U.S.)
     $4.00 shipping and handling to Canada
     P.O. Box 2037
     Ocean, NJ, 00712
     1-800-362-8183


    Q. I'd like to potty train my bird. How do I do that?
    A. Keep in mind that a bird flies, and in order to do that, it must
 stay as light as possible.  So the bird just unloads its ballast
 whenever it feels the urge.  I can speak from experience that our
 conure goes every 10-15 minutes, although now he's started to hold
 it till we get him on his potty.  What I did was get a t-stand and
 designate it as his potty.  It's small with a wide base for catching
 the Birdie Bombs(tm) :) and it's portable.  You can designate a
 pile of papers or the cage, or whatever is acceptable to you.  I simply
 would put Sammy on his potty and say "Poop!" until he did.  Then he
 was  praised, and taken off the perch. Every 10 minutes or so
 I would repeat this.  Sammy had perfected his bombing within three
 days. We rarely have accidents.  I can hold him over a paper or in
 his cage and say "Poop!" and he will. You can choose whatever key word
 you like best, as long as it's not too common, which may confuse the
 bird if it hears its cue in normal conversations. Some birds
 potty train themselves. Some, unfortunately, do this using their water
 bowls and thus make poop soup. Apparently Quaker Parakeets are known
 for this. For a chronic soup maker, you may want to get a tube
 waterer, like the kind used for hamsters.

***He--OUCH!--Help! My bird bites! How do I stop it!?"
       Birds will bite for three reasons; they will bite out of fear, they
       will bite because they are excited or even just because they're feelin'
       good and are being high-spirited, and they will bite out of malice--
       biting for the sake of biting.

       Birds that bite for the sake of chomping might be better off as a
       breeder.  Any bird will bite, and justly so--if it's frightened.
       Birds go through a nippy stage when they hit puberty. They're trying to
       establish their position in the social order. This is natural.  You
       should give an "Up!" command in a firm voice when this happens. It
       reminds the parrot just who is in charge of the flock.

       Keep in mind that a tongue to a baby bird is like fingers to a two year
       old human.  The tongue is tactile and the bird uses it to explore its
       world.  Never jerk your hand away from a bird that's exploring, it may
       get frightened and bite you. An "Ouch!" is okay, if the the bird
"beaks"
       you a little too hard. The "Ouch!" will help the bird to understand
       your limits (and its limits!) But never yell, hit, or be dramatic,
       even though your fingers--and feelings may be hurt.  Such behavior can
       be a drama award and it's exciting for the bird to get a rise from you.

       Don't put the bird in its cage either, should it bite.  This only
       reinforces territoriality about the bird's cage, and the parrot will
       quickly equate bite = back to cage. The bird will then bite whenever
       and however often it feels like going back to its cage.

       A good bite correction is a wobble.  If the bird is perched on 
       your hand, and bites, drop your hand quickly.  The bird loses it's 
       balance and has to release the bite.  This is unpleasant (imagine
       the floor dropping out from under you unexpectedly.) but effective.
       The bird soon learns to associate "bite = wobble", and will stop 
       biting when on a hand.  

       You would be very surprised how gentle birds are once they understand
       your limits, even the bigger birds.  I once had an opportunity to
       handle a Blue and Gold Macaw (Ara ararauna).  These birds can bite hard
       enough to break a broom handle(!).  The breeder of the bird had
       obviously spent a great deal of time and patience with the young
       bird, as it took my index finger in its beak and explored it very
       gently, never once bearing down hard enough to be even slightly
       uncomfortable.  Such a tame and well-trained bird is a pleasure.


==PLAYING==

       Play is an important part of your bird's daily activities and it's fun
       to do things with your bird.  This can range from watching TV together
       to sailing, to games, to listening to music together.  A bird is most
       happy when it can be part of the family and part of the action. Also,
       a certain amount of *independent* playtime--where the bird is
       responsible for amusing itself--is necessary, whether you are at home
       or not. Make certain your bird has few safe, fun and interesting toys
       to amuse itself with.  This independent time keeps the bird mentally
       healthy and gives you a break too.


================================================================================
  T  R  A  V  E L  L  I  N  G  -  W  I T  H  -  B  I  R  D  S
================================================================================


    Q. Can I travel with my bird?
    A. If your bird is not stressed by new places and situations, yes.
       Make sure to call ahead to confirm that hotels will take birds.
       Also talk to your vet if you'll be crossing state lines, you may
       need a certificate of health and perhaps other papers.

    Q. What's the best way to transport my bird?
    A. In a sturdy container. It's a terrible idea to let the bird ride
       on your shoulder or be loose in the car.  Should the bird spook,
       it could endanger everybody.

    Q. What about carsickness? Do birds get it?
    A. Yes, with the same symptoms as people.  They get sick and vomit, act
       listless and may lose their appetite.  Not feeding the bird and
covering
       the cage will help ease this.  The sickness may even be due to nerves.
       Once again, your vet can help you.

    Q. Should I acclimate my bird to travelling in the car?
    A. If the bird seems apprehensive about it, yes.  Do this gradually,
       perhaps beginning with the carrier.  Let the bird have enough time
       to get used to it.  Leave it open in the play area and let the bird
       poke around in it. Take the bird out to the car.  Sit in it for a
while.
       Don't run the car, just sit in there, and praise the bird.  Work up to
       where the bird feels comfortable. Then try running the car. Work up to
       comfort again. Then try short drives. Then longer. And then pretty
       soon the bird will be able to drive the car by itself.

    Q. What should I bring when travelling?
    A. A first aid kit (just in case) food, treats, bottled water or water
from
       home, strange water may cause health problems. A few favorite toys, and
       of course, your bird!

    Q. What if my bird can't deal with travelling?
    A. You can have a family member or a friend come in and feed and socialize
       with your bird or you can hire a pet-sitter.  You can also board your
       bird with someone, but doing so at a pet-shop may prove too stressful
       for the bird, and it could catch something from other birds at the
shop.
       Boarders and pet-sitters are listed in the yellow-pages. Get references
       and make sure that the person or company is bonded.  Try to get the
       pet-sitter to come over and meet your bird and show the sitter how to
       prepare the bird's meals.  Give the sitter a chance to play with the
       bird, if possible.  Leave a sheet with written instructions and the
       number of your vet and where you can be contacted if any problems
occur.


================================================================================
V  E  T  S - H E  A  L  T  H - H  A  Z  A  R  D  S - F  I  R  S  T A  I  D
================================================================================


==FINDING AN AVIAN VET==
    
    A vet plays an integral part in the life of you and your bird.  S/he can
    offer advice, options, information, and of course, medicinal care!  Before
    you even buy a bird, make sure you have a vet.  

    Q. Where can I find an avian vet?
    A. Try looking in the yellow pages, asking a breeder or another friend
 for a recommendation.

    Q. What do I look for when I go to check out the vet?
    A. A number of things: Is the office clean and does it have proper
 equipment?  Look for or ask to see bird-related equipment like
 an incubator, special bird syringes--to administer small doses,
 opthalmic equipment--for surgery and for sexing, perhaps a laser
 if the office is advanced enough. Ask for a tour when it's convenient
 for the doctor and the staff! Most vets will gladly do this--they're
 usually very proud of what they can offer to their avian patients.
 Do you like the doctor's manner and personality?  Are you encouraged
 to and do you feel comfortable asking questions? Does the doctor take
 the time to explain things? Will the doctor refer you to a specialist
 if this is what the bird needs? Can--and will the doctor admit when
 s/he doesn't know?  Are the fees and rates explained to you? Do the
 costs seem reasonable? Are various tests available and used? Are the
 purposes of these tests made clear to you?  Are these tests needed or
 are they extraneous?  Does your vet own any birds?

    Q. The vet I have for my dog doesn't seem to know a lot about birds.
 Will he be offended if I go to another vet?
    A. If the vet's worth their salt, no.  They should always have the
 animals' best interest at hearts.  If you feel very badly, continue
 to bring the dog to your regular vet, and the bird to a vet with an
 interest with birds.


==HEALTH==


    Q. How do I tell if my bird is sick?
    A. The best indicator would be the bird's droppings. Bright green or
       watery droppings are not a good sign.  Also a sick bird will sit
huddled
       and puffed up, with its eyes closed.  The bird's song may change or
stop
       and it may stop talking. Wheezing or sneezing or a nasal discharge is
       bad news. The bird might "pump" its tail. It may not eat or it may
       consume vast amounts of water.  Observe your bird every day, that way
       when something occurs out of the ordinary, you'll notice.  Also, birds
       often don't manifest signs of sickness until they're really in trouble.
       Watch for warning signs, and act on them--get that bird to a vet.
       Better safe than sorry.

    Q. Do I really need to clip my bird's wings?
    A. A lot of people think it's mean to clip a bird's wings.  "What good
       is a bird that can't fly?" Well, it's a bird that you won't lose.
       Wing clipping is painless, like getting a haircut. The bird won't end
       up injured due to flying in the house.  Clipping also keeps the bird
       from getting too smart-alecky and it is an aid in the taming process.
       Different birds require different patterns of clipping. A cockatiel
       is such a powerful flyer that usually all the primaries have to be
       trimmed.  Ask your vet or breeder to show you how to do it, and then
       you can do it yourself from there.  If you do it, it's actually less
       stressing for the bird, and no, the bird won't hate you.  Make sure
       to check for bloodfeathers before clipping wings.

    Q. My bird's nails are overgrown. Can they be trimmed?
    A. Yes.  Use either a pair of nail clippers or special bird claw scissors.
       Look for the "quick", the vein that is in the claw.  You can see in it
       light colored claws as a pinkish stripe. In dark claws, you can turn
       the bird over to see the underside of the claw and the quick.  You may
       want to have someone show you how to clip them first.  Provide
different
       perches and surfaces to keep claws in trim naturally. If you do hit the
       quick, dip the claw into some styptic powder to staunch the bleeding.

    Q. My bird's beak is overgrown. What do I do?
    A. An overgrown beak usually means that the bird doesn't have enough to
       gnaw on, which is how the bird keeps the beak trimmed in the wild.
       A vet or experienced breeder must trim the beak, as it is full of
       blood vessels, and a mishap could be very serious.  Offer the bird
       toys to chew on or lava blocks or such to help keep the beak trimmed.

    Q. Does my bird need a bath?
    A. Yes! Most birds love baths, and will bathe in a dish or in the shower
       with you or like to be spritzed with a plant mister set to fine.
       It's excellent for the bird's plumage and with "dusty" birds, like
       cockatoos, helps keep down the dust.  Some birds may have to be
       gradually introduced to misting, but it's a good move.  You can let
       the bird dry by itself (as long as the ambient temperature in your
       house is at *least* 60 degrees Farenheit (16 Celsius) or use a
       hairdryer set on medium heat. Never put a wet bird to bed for the
night.

    Q. Do I need to install full-spectrum lighting? 
    A. It's a good idea, especially since birds really don't get enough
       sunlight in an apartment or some homes. You can get the bulbs at
       pet stores or order them directly.  These bulbs are called "R" bulbs
       meaning that they cannot be used with a covered fixture. This includes
       track lighting and recessed lighting--anything with a "shade" even if
       the "shade" is made of metal.  Check with the manufacturer, or get in
       touch with the local electrician.  The lighting should be placed 4 to
       8 feet away from the cage, in an ordinary light socket (no shade!)
       The light should only be hitting a portion of the cage. The bulbs
       should be used a *minimum* of 10 (ten) hours a week.

    Q. What about an air-filtration system?
    A. Maybe. If you find you're sensitive to the dust from your birds.
       They help reduce the dust load greatly. If you have a lot of birds,
       this is a good idea.  Also, if you smoke, it would be a good idea to
       have a filtration system for the sake of your birds.

    Q. What about stress in my bird?
    A. The best cure for stress is prevention! Make sure the bird is healthy,
       has a good diet and isn't bored.  But if this all checks out, think
       about the bird's surroundings: Did it recently get a new cage or was
       the cage moved? Did you rearrange the furniture? Change the diet?
       Remember, birds are usually suspicious of any new thing.  Stress is
       serious, it's a physical reaction to mental and physical strain.
       A bird can become stressed when you go away for a long period of time,
       like a vacation.  Infections can be a cause of stress--the bird is
       fighting to maintain homeostasis.  Even strong perfume or even smoke
       can be a stressor.  Natural processes, such as breeding or molting
       can cause stress.  Of course, what may stress one bird may be of no
       consequence to another.

*Help! My bird's NAKED! Why does it pluck?"
       This behavior is most common in African Greys. Plucking is usually
       brought on by stress, but sometimes skin problems can cause it.
       Parakeets sometimes will pluck their older babies, in order to get them
       out of the nest, so that they can clutch again. Cockatiels might do
       it as well. A bird may denude itself because it wants to breed, but
       cannot, as it's a pet.  Sometimes, plucking is acceptable, as when a
hen
       may pluck her brooding area to transfer her body heat better. Boredom
       can cause plucking.  A diet that is poor can cause this behavior, too.
       Once started, it usually is a very hard habit to break, and even if
       "cured" the bird may regress back to plucking if it gets upset.  Even a
       minor change may trigger plucking.

    Q. How do I stop the bird from plucking?
    A. First, take it to the vet to rule out any medical causes.
       Consider any changes in the bird's environment.  Even little things.
       A plucker may be dissuaded from its habit by giving the bird a toy
       with rope or fabric or anything the bird can tear up.  Polly Dolly (tm)
       toys are great for pluckers.  There are bitter apple sprays available,
       but they usually don't work.  Collars can be used, but don't ever try
       to do this without a vet's help, or the bird could get hurt.

    Q. Do I need to vaccinate my birds?
    A. There are pros and cons to vaccinations.  The biggest drawback is that
       every bird will react differently to the same vaccination.  Some birds
       become paralyzed, others blind, some die, some aren't even bothered.
       I would think that one or two domestic birds kept as pets wouldn't need
       it.  Birds in a large, mixed, business aviary, maybe.  I don't feel
       qualified to give advice on this one.  Ask your vet. They'll be able
       to explain it to you, correctly and in depth.

    Q. What's a hospital cage?
    A. It's a small, enclosed cage that has a heater in it, and usually a
       humidifier. A hospital cage can be warmed up, which makes it easier
       for the sick bird to maintain its normally high body temperature. The
       humidifer helps ease respiratory problems.  You can make such a cage
       by using a small aquarium, and placing a heating pad under it. Put a
       thermometer in the bottom corner where the bird will be. Put some
       bedding in there, along with food and water, and cover with towels.
       Place in a dim room. The temperature should be about 85 to 90 degrees
       Farenheit (27 to 32 degrees Celsius).  If you're really in a pinch,
       place the cage, wrapped in towels, near a lightbulb.


==HAZARDS==


    Q. What are some common hazards?
    A. Animals (Cat and dog saliva is very hazardous to birds)
       Aquariums (Uncovered = drowning)
       Carpet (getting snagged)
       Ceiling fans
       Children (Unless they know how to handle the bird)
       Chimneys/fireplaces
       Curtains/Drapes (can get toenails caught)
       Electrical wires, fixtures.
       Feet
       Fannies
       Mirrors
       Phone cords
       Pots on the stove
       PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene)--given off by nonstick pans overheated
      to 536 or higher degrees Farenheit (280 or higher Celsius)-- is
      very toxic to birds, death occurs within a few minutes.
       Stovetops
       Windows



    Q. What are some of the common household poisons?
    A. Aerosols    Insecticides         Shoe Polish
       Alcohol    Kerosene         Suntan lotions
       Antifreeze   Medicine         Waxes
       Aspirin    Mothballs
       Bleach    Paint (Lead-based)
       Caffeine    Perfume
       Cigarette smoke   Pine Oil
       Deodorants   Paint remover
       Dishwasher detergent  Paint thinner
       Drain cleaner   Rat/Mouse poison
       Gasoline    Shellac


    Q. I have plants in my home. What ones are safe and what are dangerous?
    A. Tom Przybylski <przybyls@avo.hp.com> posted the following list of
       dangerous plants (taken from the October '87 Bird Talk Magazine) to
       the group:

       The article gives latin names as well that I did not copy in.  The
       symptoms codes are:  GI = gastrointestinal, CV = cardiovascular, BL =
       blood abnormalities, CNS = nervous system, IR = irritant, UR = urinary
       tract, CY = signs associated with cyanide poisoning, RE = reproductive.
       The text of the article gives more information and detail on the
       symptoms.

       All or part of the listed plant may be deemed hazardous.

       COMMON NAME       SYMPTOMS
       ------------------------------------------------
       Autumn crocus or Meadow saffron        GI
       Avocado           GI

       Azelea           GI
       Baneberry          GI
       Beans:

   Castor          GI
   Horse, Fava, Broad Java        BL
   Glory, Scarlet Runner         CY
   Mescal          CNS
   Rosary peas, Ind. Licorice        GI

       Bird of Paradise          GI
       Bleeding Heart or Dutchman's Breeches   CNS
       Bloodroot          GI
       Boxwood           GI
       Bracken Fern          BL
       Buckthorn          GI
       Bulb Flowers:
   Amaryllis          GI
   Daffodil, Narcissus         GI
   Hyacinth          GI
   Iris           GI

       Caladium           IR
       Calla Lily          IR
       Cardinal Flower          CNS
       Chalice or Trumpet Vine         GI
       Cherry Tree          CNS
       Chinaberry Tree          CNS
       Christmas Candle or Rose         GI
       Clematis or Virginia Bower        CNS
       Coral Plant          GI
       Cowslip, Marsh Marigold         CNS

       Daphne           GI
       Death Camas          CNS
       Dieffenbachia, or Dumb Cane        IR

       Elderberry          CNS
       Elephants Ear or Taro         IR
       Eucalyptus Tree - not dried, dyed,
  treated          CY*
       Euonymus or Spindle Tree         GI

       False Hellebore          CV
       Firethorn, Pyracantha         IR*
       Four O'Clock                            GI
       Foxglove           CV

       Golden Chain          CNS
       Grass: Johnson, Sorghum, Sudan,
   Broomcorn          CY
       Ground Cherry          GI

       Hemlock:
   Poison          CNS
   Water           CNS
       Henbane           CNS
       Holly           GI
       Honeysuckle          GI*
       Horsechestnut or Buckeye         GI
       Horsetail          CNS
       Hydrangea          CNS

       Ivy, English, varieties         GI*

       Jack-in-the-Pulpit or Ind. Turnip       IR
       Jasmine           GI, CNS
       Jimson Weed or Thornapple        CNS

       Kentucky Coffee Tree         CNS

       Lantana           CNS
       Larkspur           CV
       Lily-of-the-Valley         CV
       Locusts:
   Black           GI
   Honey           RE
       Lord and Ladies or cuckoopint        GI
       Lupines or Bluebonnet         CNS

       Marijuana or Hemp         CNS
       Mayapple, Mandrake         GI
       Mistletoe          GI
       Mock Orange          GI, CNS
       Monkshood, Aconite         CV
       Moonseed           CNS
       Morning Glory          CNS
       Mushrooms - Amanita, others        GI, CNS

       Nettles           CNS, CV
       Nightshades: Deadly, Black, Garden,
   Woody, Bittersweet, Eggplant,
   Jerusalem Cherry, Potato shoots      GI, CNS

       Oaks           GI
       Oleander           CV

       Periwinkle          CNS
       Philodendrons: var. Split Leaf, Swiss
   Cheese          IR*
       Pigweed           BL
       Poinsetta          IR*
       Poison Ivy          IR
       Poison Oak: Western, Eastern        IR
       Pokeweed or Inkberry         GI
       Privet           GI

       Rain Tree          GI
       Ranunculus, Buttercup         CNS
       Red Maple          GI
       Rhubarb leaves          UR
       Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Laurels        GI

       Sandbox Tree          GI
       Skunk Cabbage          IR
       Sorrel, Dock          CNS
       Snowdrop           GI
       Spurges:           GI, IR
   Pencil Tree
   Snow on the Mountain
   Candelabra Tree
   Crown of Thorns
       Sweet Pea and related peas        CNS

       Tansy Ragwort          CNS
       Tobacco, Tree Tobacco         CNS

       Vetch           CY
       Virginia Creeper          GI

       Wisteria           GI

       Yews           CV, GI
       Yellow Jasmine          CNS

* These plants have been used in aviaries without reported problems
and may be considered of questionable hazard to birds.

-----
    Q. I'm worried about my bird getting stolen. What can I do?
    A. Your best bet is not to tell people the worth of your birds. If you
       have to transport them, do so in a covered carrier and tell them
       you have a canary.  If you have a big bird, you might want to lock it
in
       in the cage and keep the keys with you. I doubt a crook will try to
       make off with a 215 pound wrought-iron cage just because the bird's
       locked inside of it. Teach your bird your name, address and phone
number.
       If you have a lot of birds, invest in an alarm system.  Don't put
       the bird in a window where people can look in and see it.  If you
       have a very rare, expensive or just much-loved bird, consider having
       a transponder planted in its chest. It's painless and effective.

    Q. How can I make sure that I can postively identify my bird should it
       be stolen? (Heaven forbid!)
    A. Teach your bird your full name, address and phone number if at all
       possible.  Keep your receipt, which should have the bird's band number
       on it. The thief will, in all likelihood cut off the band, though.
       Make an audiotape of the bird speaking, especially if it says something
       that's unique. Make a videotape of the bird, if it does tricks.
       Take photographs of feet and beak, they're just like fingerprints,
       each unique.  With  Macaws, the feather lines on the facial patch are
       good identification.  All these lines vary slightly from bird to bird.
       Photograph any unusual physical features, like scars or marks or
       missing toes and the like.  You can get the bird tattooed with an I.D.
       number, but bird skin is thin, and doesn't hold the tattoo well.  It
       fades quickly and has to be retouched every so often. It also is very
       stressing for the bird. Transponders are effective, painless and
       undetectable.


    Q. Is there such thing as bird insurance?
    A. Yes, there is. You may be able to get additional coverage from
       your company, but usually not. The loss of a bird will not be covered
       by your homeowner/rental policy, either. However, there is a company
       called Avi-Care that has a standard policy which provides coverage
       against theft and death.  Premiums begin at 9.5% of the bird's market
       value.  There is also an optional veterinary coverage at additional
       cost.  For futher information call or write to:

         Complete Equity Markets, Inc.
         Avicare Divison
         1098 South Milwaukee Avenue
         Wheeling, IL, 60090-6398
         1-800-323-6234


================================================================================
        F  I  R  S  T A  I  D
================================================================================

==AVIAN AID==

*Note: ALL the A's in this section are what to do right then and there.
Should the situation be serious, get to the vet, who will perform "Second aid"
First aid is just to hold the bird over 'till the vet visit. IT IS NOT A CURE.

    Q. Can I buy complete bird first aid kits?
    A. Yes, you can!

       Exotic Bird Care    Thief Of Hearts
       Bird Aid     First Aid Kit
       7514 Charmant Drive #923   421 N. Glenn
       San Diego, CA, 92122   Wichita, KS, 67203
       1-619-793-2473    1-316-267-1656
       $14.95 plus $2.00 s/h   $39.95 (loaded with stuff!)
       CA residents add 7.75% tax

    Q. I would like to put together my own kit. What should be in it?
    A. First get a toolbox to put everything in. Then you should get:
       Tweezers, scissors, clippers, long needlenosed pliers or a hemostat
       to remove broken bloodfeathers (hemostats can be purchased at
RadioShack
       in the tool section), Styptic *powder* (pencils are too hard), Bird
       towel,  masking tape or other tape that won't ruin feathers, rubbing
       alcohol (but don't use on head or vent), gauze and gauze sponges for
       cleansing wounds, Q-tips, Betadine scrub for washing feet, hydrogen
       peroxide, syringes for handfeeding a sick bird, and baggies for
       stool samples or storing a sample of poisons or other substances the
       bird may have ingested. Find a booklet of first aid procedures and put
       that in there as well!


    Q. What shouldn't I do to the bird?
    A. Never use oils or lotions which contain oils on your bird. They gunk
       up the feathers, and ruin their insulating properties. This means a
       chilled bird.  Never wait out a cat bite--those require immediate
       veterinary attention--a bird can die within two days because a cat's
       mouth is so filthy and full of bacteria.  Don't bother with over-the-
       counter medication. It really doesn't work, and in some cases, may
       upset the delicate bacterial balance in the bird's body, or even worsen
       the situation.  Never try to treat a fracture at home.

    Q. My bird is healthy. I don't need to go to a vet, do I?
    A. Schedule a "well-bird" checkup.  Prevention is the best medicine.
       Even though the bird might appear outwardly healthy, it may have a
       low-grade infection or something not so readily apparent.  Your bird's
       health and your peace of mind will be worth it.

    Q. My bird's leg is being rubbed raw by the leg band. Can I take it off?
    A. No. Don't attempt this, especially if the leg is broken or swollen.
       The vet will be able to remove the band, and deal with whatever injury
       maybe lurking under the banded area.

    Q. How do I pull a broken bloodfeather?
    A. This is probably the most common mishap.  The remedy is simple--yank!
       It's most easily done with two people. One to restrain the bird and the
       other to pull the feather.  Use a plier, or a hemostat. Tweezers won't
       work on primaries.  Make certain that the wing bones are firmly
       supported or you can break the wing. Clamp onto the feather and give a
       sharp tug in the direction of the feather. The feather will come out.
       Next, apply gentle, direct pressure to the follicle where the feather
       was to stop the bleeding.  Dab some styptic powder on it, as it will
       help stop the bleeding as well.  Let the bird rest.  Ask your vet
       or breeder to demonstrate exactly how to pull a bloodfeather if you're
       apprehensive about doing it.

    Q. My bird has broken its wing, what now?
    A. Get thee to a vet! But take precautions to immobilize the wing. Using
       butcher, drafting, or masking tape (which isn't too sticky) tape the
       wing gently to the body.

    Q. My bird can't lay her eggs. What can I do to help?
    A. Put her in a hospital cage, and keep her warm. Sometimes this is all
       it takes.  Never try to expell the egg yourself, it may break, and then
       the bird may get an infection.  Call the vet, just in case. When the
       egg is stuck, the bird cannot relieve itself, and toxins build up.

    Q. What can I do for a burn?
    A. Rinse with lots and lots of cool water. A burn is a very serious injury
       because they are so prone to infection.

    Q. My sick bird isn't eating!
    A. Even eating treat foods is better than not eating at all. Try a hand-
       feeding formula if all else fails.

    Q. My bird is wheezing, what could this mean?
    A. The bird may have inhaled a seed hull or a bit of pellet. This is very
       serious.  Also, the bird may have air-sac mites (Gouldian Finches are
       prone to these) or an infection.  All these require vet care.

    Q. I feel like this is all my fault, why did this happen?
    A. Even with the best of intent and cautions, mishaps occur. That's
exactly
       why they're called accidents.


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         E N D   P A R T    I I   *last revised 10/15/93*
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Archive-name: birds-faq/pets/part3
Last-modified: 1993/12/05
Version: 4

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     * * *  W  E  L  C O  M  E    T  O     T  H  E F  A  Q  * * *
  (F)reqently (A)sked (Q)uestions regarding rec.pets.birds.
                                                   
     P A R T  III
     ============

This is a monthly posting of topics regarding birds that may prove
useful to those new to this group or to the rewarding hobby of keeping birds.
Or, more accurately, of your bird keeping you!

This FAQ, as a collection of information, is copyrighted 1993,
by Jodi L. Giannini, and distribution by means other than Usenet is by
permission only.  Removal of this copyright notice is not permitted.


Part 3 covers Birds and Lung Cancer.
 
Species-specific faqs cover the named species: Poicephalus

Topics that are covered in Part 1 are: Bird magazines, books, and the like;
Basic bird terminology; Choosing/Buying a bird; Cages, perches and Bird toys.

Topics that are covered in Part 2 are: Diet and feeding; Taming and training;
Travel with birds, Finding an avian vet; Health; Hazards; and First Aid. 



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                    LUNG CANCER AND PET BIRDS
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--compiled and contributed by Mary Firestone (rclapp@apc.igc.org) (on EcoNet)


LUNG CANCER AND BIRDKEEPERS: Three Studies

Some members of the birdkeeping community have expressed concern
over reports that scientific studies have shown birdkeeping to be
a risk factor for respiratory cancers.  Since I live with an
unruly mob of conures and have easy access to the epidemiological
literature, I decided to have a look at the studies.  A very brief
summary is shown below; more detail follows.

Odds ratio = odds of exposure in patients with a disease divided
by odds of exposure in controls (those without the disease).  For
example, if the odds of exposure in the patients is .5 and in the
controls is .25, the odds ratio is 2.0.  An OR of 2.0 for a group
of patients means that people in that group are two times as
likely to have been exposed to birdkeeping as controls.  If the OR
is .50, they are half as like to have been exposed.

_________________________________________________________________


  Odds ratios for three variables


Author,          Bird    Smoking       Diet

# of cases      keeping

Kohlmeier        2.4      16.08     daily carrot    0.24

et al., 239                         consumption

Gardiner         1.29     19.69     beta carotene   0.56

et al., 143                         > 2000 mg/wk

Holst et al.,    6.7      10.0      vitamin C       0.23

   49                               > 50 mg/day

_________________________________________________________________


All three of these studies were case-control studies.  In a
case-control study, each case is compared with one or more
non-cases.  In general, a study with more cases is less likely to
produce results solely due to chance.  Errors due to study design
can occur in a study of any size, and someone can always be found
to disagree with a study design.  It has been said that an
epidemiologist is someone whose job is to disagree with other
epidemiologists.

Following are full citations, abstracts, and some additional data
on each of the three studies.  All articles and the editorial
appeared in the British Medical Journal (BMJ).

________________________________________________

"Avian exposure and bronchogenic carcinoma."

Austen JS Gardiner: Monklands District General Hospital Medical
Unit, Airdrie, Lanarkshire, Scotland ; Barbara A. Forey, and Peter
N. Lee: P N Lee Statistics and Computing, Sutton, Surrey, England


BMJ 305: 989-992, 24 October 1992.  3 references

ABSTRACT:  Objective - To investigate the association between
birdkeeping and risk of lung cancer.  Design - Case-control study
asking detailed questions on exposure to domestic birds and other
pets, smoking, and various demographic and potentially confounding
variables.  Setting - District general hospital; current
admissions interviews in hospital or recent admissions interviewed
at home.  Patients - 143 patients with lung cancer, 143 controls
with heart disease, and 143 controls with orthopaedic conditions
individually matched for age, sex, date of admission, and current
or past admission.  Main outcome measures - Odds ratios for lung
cancer in relation to various aspects of birdkeeping, after
adjustment for smoking and other relevant confounding variables.
Results - Risk of lung cancer was not significantly associated
with household exposure to pet birds at any time or at various
specific periods in life, or to keeping large numbers of birds.
For specific types of birds no association was seen for living in
households with budgerigars or canaries but risk was significantly
associated with keeping pigeons (odds ratio 3.53, 95% confidence
interval 1.56 to 7.98).  This remained significant after
regression analysis to account for confounding variables (3.9, 1.2
to 12.62) in both sexes and all age groups.  Conclusion - Bird
keeping may confer some risk of lung cancer but the relation is
not as strong as previously reported.

Odds ratios for various exposures:

Ever kept bird in household          1.29

Type of pet

   Budgerigar                        1.14

   Canary                            0.54

   Pigeon                            3.53

   Finch                             1.28

   Cockatiel,parakeet,

     lovebird, parrot                2.03

   Dog                               1.07

   Cat                               0.77

   Other pets                        1.22

Ever worked

   In pet store                      2.22

   In greenhouse w/chicken manure   20.01

Current smoker                      19.69

Beta carotene >2000mg/wk             0.56

NOTE: 97% of cases and 78% of controls had been smokers.

________________________________________________

"Pet birds as an independent risk factor for lung cancer."

Kohlmeier L, Arminger G, Bartolomeycik S, Bellach B, Rehm J and
Thamm M.: Institute for Social Medicine and Epidemiology, Berlin,
Germany.

BMJ 305: 986-989, 24 Oct 1992.  37 references

ABSTRACT:  Objective - To test the hypothesis that exposure to pet
birds increases risk of developing lung cancer.  Design -
Case-control study.  Computerized interviews were used to assess
previous exposure to pets and other risk factors for lung cancer.
Setting - Three major hospitals treating respiratory disease in
former West Berlin.  Subjects - All people newly diagnosed as
having primary malignant neoplasm of the trachea, bronchi, or lung
who were 65 or younger and control subjects matched for age and
sex from the general population of former West Berlin.  279 cases
and 635 controls qualified for the study; 239 cases and 429
controls participated.  Main outcome measure - Odds ratio of
developing lung cancer according to whether or not pet birds were
kept and the duration of keeping pet birds.  Results - In addition
to the risk of lung cancer imposed by smoking, passive smoking and
occupational exposure to carcinogens, an increased relative risk
of 2.14 (95% confidence interval 1.35 to 3.40) was found among
people exposed to pet birds.  The adjusted odds ratio for
exposures longer than 10 years was 3.19 (1.48 to 8.21).
Conclusions - Avian exposure seems to carry a risk of lung cancer.
Until the pathogenesis is understood, long term exposure to pet
birds in living areas should be avoided, especially among people
at high risk of developing lung cancer.

EXCERPT FROM INTRODUCTION:  Contact with birds has been associated
with impaired pulmonary function, including chronic avian
hypersensitivity pneumonitis or extrinsic allergic alveolitis.
The result can be pulmonary interstitial fibrosis and permanent
pulmonary impairment.  Long term exposure to avian antigens has
resulted in reduced T suppressor cell activity in lymphocytes
obtained by lavage.  Parasites such as Sarcocystis falcutula,
carried by canaries and pigeons, are known to affect the pulmonary
epithelial cells of the birds themselves.  Non-smoking pigeon
fanciers maintain high concentrations of IgG antibody to pigeon
gamma globulin and increased rates of clearance of
diethylenetriaminepenta-acetic acid labelled with technetium-99m,
which indicate that the lungs' integrity is affected.  Whether
such changes initiate the development of cancerogenic cells has
not been investigated in humans.

NOTE: 95.4% of cases and 55% of controls were smokers.

________________________________________________

Editorial: "Pet birds and lung cancer - smoking is still a
confounder"

John Britton (Senior Lecturer) and Sarah Lewis (Statistician):
Respiratory Medicine Unit, City Hospital, Nottingham, England

BMJ 305: 970-971, 24 Oct 1992.

Final paragraph:  Despite the possible sources of error in these
studies it is essential to give the work credit.  If valid, the
association with pet birds would not only identify an easily
avoidable cause of disease but also open new avenues for
pathogenetic research.  The immediate priority is to build on
these findings by conducting investigations that control properly
for the effects of smoking.  One solution would be to study lung
cancer only in lifetime non-smokers, perhaps by combining data on
non-smokers from these three studies.  The finding in the two
papers in this issue of an association with intake of vitamin A
also highlights the potential value of investigating dietary
intervention in the prevention of lung cancer.  Smoking may remain
the most important cause of lung cancer, but we should not ignore
other possible causes.

________________________________________________

"For debate: Pet birds as an independent risk factor for lung
cancer."

Peter A. Holst (General Practitioner), Wassenaar, The Netherlands;
Daan Kromhout (Professor, Institute of Social Medicine) and Ronald
Brand (Statistician, Department of Medical Statistics): University
of Leiden, The Netherlands

BMJ 297: 1319-1321. 19 November 1988.  15 references

ABSTRACT: To find out whether keeping birds in the home is an
independent risk factor for lung cancer, a case-control study was
carried out in four main hospitals in The Hague, The Netherlands.
Forty nine patients under 65 years of age with lung cancer were
matched for age and sex with two control subjects who attended the
same general practice.  Data were collected on social class,
cigarette smoking, intake of beta carotene and vitamin C, and
alcohol consumption.  It was found that smoking, birdkeeping, and
a low intake of vitamin C were significantly and independently
related to the incidence of lung cancer.  The odds ratio for lung
cancer among people who kept birds as pets was estimated to be 6.7
after adjusting for smoking and vitamin C intake.  The results of
this study suggest that keeping pet birds is an independent risk
factor for lung cancer.

NOTE: 98% of cases and 84% of controls were smokers.

Holst has also published a book, Birdkeeping as a source of lung
cancer and other human diseases: a need for higher hygienic
standards.  Heidelberg: Springer-Verlag, 1988.

________________________________________________

Personally, I do not intend to give up my conures, but I do intend
to install an air filter in the Fall; since my fans run
continuously in the summer, the filter would not have much chance
to do its work before the air is whisked away to the outdoors (and
polluted outdoor air is whisked in).  I have never been (or lived
with) a smoker, and had no notable occupational exposure to
respiratory carcinogens, so I would seem to be at lower risk than
most of the cases in this study, but there are no guarantees.
Even persons who are not in the known high risk categories
(smoking, passive smoking, occupational exposure) occasionally get
a disease, and not everyone in the high risk categories gets the
disease.

The principal question as I see it is: does living with birds
enhance my life?  The answer is: Yes.


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 *FAQ COMPLETED 2/28/93*  Last revised 10/15/93 * C 1993 by Jodi Giannini* 
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